Food & Drink
Combine the best of local ingredients with Indian flair to add some zing to the start of spring, writes chef and author
Indian recipes from Cyrus Todiwal, plus Rose Murray Brown selects the best reds for Easter
After a slow start, spring seems to be getting underway. It’s more welcome than ever this year, after such a hard winter with the snow and bitter winds during the recent cold snap. I’m also really looking forward to the new season of produce that’s starting to emerge. Langoustines are now widely available; parsley and chives are back on the table and go perfectly with a plate of freshly caught wild salmon. Watercress and spinach will be sprouting soon and wild garlic is on its way.
I’m heading over to Fife on a mission to celebrate local produce (blended with some Indian spice, of course). My fofos de arroz recipe, right, can be served as a snack, side or a canapé, and I’ll be making them at the dinner I’m hosting at Fairmont St Andrews tonight. They’re really easy to prepare, with ingredients you’ll probably have at home. The green chilli and paprika give a lovely amount of heat which is perfect for an early spring night, and the coriander adds freshness to balance the rich cheeses I use in the dish.
They will be served to guests upon arrival at this dinner, alongside Hebridean hen crab fritters, grilled Wester Ross salmon and braised ox cheek. If you love the sound of these, then you should join us tomorrow for a masterclass, where I’ll be demonstrating recipes that make the most of stunning local produce with an Indian accent. n @ctodiwala
Fofos de arroz
These are simple rice and cheese croquettes made from leftover boiled rice or rice that’s been boiled and cooled. Ideally, thick par-boiled rice is best, or a risotto type.
Serves four to six
500g cold boiled rice 100g grated cheese (I like Isle of Mull cheddar or Blue Murder) 2 green chillies, chopped ⅓ tsp paprika or red chilli powder 1 tbsp coriander, chopped breadcrumbs, as needed 2-3 tsp flour 2 eggs aioli, or garlic and tomato chutney, optional oil, as needed salt, as needed
Take the rice, add a little salt and mash it with your palms until it is soft enough to be shaped.
Combine the cheese with the coriander, the chilli powder and green chillies, and the paprika, mix well and taste.
Make even-sized balls with the rice and set aside. Divide the cheese into as many even balls as the rice.
Flatten the rice ball on your palm until approximately ½ inch thick. Place a ball of the cheese in the centre and fold over carefully.
Make cylindrical or egg shaped forms but ensure that there are no visible cracks and roll them lightly in the flour.
In another dish beat the egg lightly. Dip each fofos in the egg and then into the breadcrumbs.
Chill them in the refrigerator for a couple of hours at least if possible. Chilling makes them firm and also helps the cheese within not to over heat and expand, thereby cracking the fofos.
Heat the oil until almost smoking and fry when you need them. Do not overheat the oil.
You can keep them in the refrigerator overnight or for a few hours before serving. Fry when you are ready. Only ensure that they are kept covered and that they have paper at the bottom. In Goa these are rolled in semolina instead of breadcrumbs. This gives a lovely crunchy texture. Serve with a garlic and tomato chutney or an aioli type dip.
Drums of heaven
This title is a term used very commonly by the Hakka Chinese restaurants of India for this popular dish. I do not add colour so our chicken will never be bright red, but the taste won’t let you down. Use this same style for strips of chicken, prawns, fish pieces etc.
Serves six to eight
2 dozen boned chicken drumsticks 3in piece fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped 4-5 garlic cloves, very finely chopped 2-3 slender green chilli, very finely chopped 1 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped 2 spring onions, very finely chopped 2 tbsp dark soy sauce 2 tbsp malted vinegar 1 tsp ground white pepper 4 whole eggs 6-8 tbsp cornstarch garlic and chilli dip, optional, to serve oil for deep frying salt
Rub all the chopped ingredients well into the legs. Add the soy sauce, vinegar, salt and pepper and mix.
Add the egg and cornstarch and mix to a batter like consistency. If too loose, add some more cornstarch.
Heat the oil deep enough to submerge a wing and fry them a few at a time. Do not overheat the oil as the wings will colour leaving them raw inside. Enjoy with a garlic and chilli dip.
Leeli chutney ma salmon
This is a simple yet delicious chargrilled salmon recipe using fresh green chutney as a marinade. It’s made throughout the subcontinent of India and there are several versions. Green chutney is extremely versatile and will make an ideal accompaniment for snack items as
well as fresh chargrilled tandoor dishes.
Serves four to six
500-600g salmon fillet 4 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped (use stalks as well) 30-40 leaves of fresh mint 4-5 green chilli, chopped 4-6 garlic cloves, chopped 1 2 inch piece of fresh ginger 1 tsp sugar 1-2 tsp salt ½ tsp turmeric juice of ½ a lime sunflower oil for basting chargrilled onion, optional
Purée together all the chutney ingredients – the coriander, mint, chilli, garlic, ginger, sugar, and salt – in a blender until you have a smooth green paste.
Add water, a little at a time, if necessary for the blades of the blender to get a grip on the ingredients. Too much liquid is not necessary as the chutney needs to be as thick as possible for best results.
Clean any scales on the skin side, pick any bones in the flesh, wash and pat completely dry. Cut into 1½ inchsized squares and apply the lime juice, turmeric and some salt.
Allow to stand for at least 40 minutes, then add as much chutney as necessary to coat the pieces.
Heat a grill to high. Place the salmon pieces skin side up in a well greased or non-stick tray and baste with a little oil. Put them under the grill and when the skin is well browned, turn over. This should take no more than eight to ten minutes in all. Do not overcook the fish but rather make sure it is still a bit undercooked on the inside. Serve on its own or threaded onto wooden kebab sticks interspersed with onion.