Sunshine on Greece
In northern Greece, the Sani Resort offers a haven of relaxation and discovery, finds Alison Gray
Eco luxury at the Sani Resort in Halkidiki
If you’re thinking about Greece for your annual break, why not eschew the holiday hot spots of the south and go north, to Thessaloniki, serviced by Jet2 flights from Edinburgh during the summer, and on to the magical peninsula of Halkidiki.
Sani Resort is on Kassandra, one of the three prongs which make up the distinctive forked outline of the peninsula. In the mid 20th century it was marshland, but in 1961 an entreprenurial pair of friends bought land from a monastery on Athos, another of the prongs (the third is called Sithonia). It took eight years to drain the swamp and clear the plot of mosquitoes but in 1971 Sani Beach Club opened. The ethos which has always driven the luxury resort – which is still run by descendants of the original owners – has never been more relevant in that a focus on green issues and the environment is
You can sign up for bird watching tours in the wetlands close to Lake Yerani
very much a part of how Sani, which encompasses a marina and 1,000 acres, operates.
Situated in the midst of a large pine forest, on the shores of the Aegean, and neighbouring an important wetland for birds, as the Sani concept has grown to accommodate five hotels, serviced by a mini village of shops and restaurants, an eco friendly approach is front and centre.
A programme of sporty activities including a hike through the Bousoulas forest, as well as a cliff walk and bike route are complemented by farm visits in July and August where guests can meet local suppliers in Nea Fokea, and of course taste their fruit, vegetables and cheese. Or you can sign up for bird watching tours in the wetlands close to Lake Yerani and Lake Stavronikita.
New for 2017 was Sani Dunes, a 136room hotel aimed at families with children aged 12 and over, offering a range of activities designed to appeal to teenagers such as sailing, dance, and a football academy in association with Chelsea FC Foundation. Sani Beach, the mothership of the operation, regularly features in Trip Advisor’s top ten hotels for families in the world.
The five hotels that make up Sani Resort, from family friendly rooms to adult only villas, are strung like fairy lights along a 7km curve of white sandy beach fringing the shimmering light turquoise of the Aegean Sea.
It’s easy to settle into a routine – a 5km jog around the outskirts of the resort, taking in the views of the pine forest and the wetlands, home to some 223 bird species.
After your exercise you can head for an alfresco buffet breakfast in Ammos, overlooking Cape Sani where delicious fruits and pastries vie with Greek yogurt and local honey for your attention. Then you’ll choose a comfortable lounger, lay out your beach towel and get to the serious work of the day, tanning, taking dips in the sea, reading and snoozing in the sun.
On our visit there was the added entertainment of watching a swimwear modelling shoot. We ended up feeling quite sorry for the model splashing around in the shallows like a beautiful beached mermaid while half a dozen photographers’ assistants
waved around umbrellas and light reflectors. There was even a drone flying overhead to record the glamorous melee.
Eventually you might need to get out of your lounger for lunch. Then the only difficulty is where to choose? There are 24 restaurants offering everything from a traditional Greek menu to Japanese, 19 bars and cafes and five spas. We picked Grill by the Pool for dishes like charred squid and the ubiquitous Greek salad, always tasty, perhaps washed down with a crisp Assyrtiko, purely in the interests of supporting local enterprise, of course.
To keep you fit there’s a sports centre, tennis courts, beach volleyball, football, a climbing wall, watersports and diving. Recent additions include paddleboard yoga as well as the normal kind, at sunrise. I signed up for a zumba class which was sweatier than normal in the heat, but good fun.
You won’t really need to leave Sani but if you do feel the urge to explore you’ll have been glad to see a little more of this interesting corner of Greece.
Half day excursions offered by the hotel include a visit to the Gerovassiliou winery. Since 1981 this family concern has been involved in wine cultivating and wine making. With a background in engineering the father of the vineyard – Vangelis Gerovassiliou – is also known as the father of malagousia, the Greek variety which was on the verge of extinction until he single handedly developed the grape and promoted its use. Dad’s also got a sense of humour – most wine drinkers will get a kick out of examining his collection of 2,600 corkscrews from the very earliest tiny ladies reticule instruments designed to unstop a bottle of scent to the showiest of geegaws – marble headed lions and sharp toothed crocodiles. The elegant winery restaurant is the ideal place to sample a glass of their wares with a Greek salad or some grilled vegetables. It rivals any such set up in France.
Another excursion you might have to organise for yourself is a boat trip to one of the other prongs of Halkidiki – Athos. If you’re a woman, the only way you’re ever going to experience Athos is from 500m from the shore as women are not permitted to set foot on this land. Since earliest times Athos has been home to religious communities of monks. Today there are around 20 monasteries which are mainly Greek but there are also Russian and Bulgarian communities as well as smaller single cells for hermits. Men can apply to visit, but women including female animals such as cows and sheep are forbidden although my guidebook tells me that songbirds and insects are OK. The legend states that when the Virgin Mary saw Athos she asked Jesus to keep it for her and for her alone as it was so beautiful. The day cruise we booked passed eight of the 20 monasteries, including the spectacular Russian edifice which we’re were told Vladimir Putin helicopters into quite regularly.
After such adventures it was a relief to return to our own cell, considerably less ascetic than the monks’ it has to be said, what with a well-stocked mini bar, Nespresso coffee machine and toiletries by Anne Semonin of Paris (who also features in the spas).
Visits to local villages are also fun and our souvenirs were all of the edible variety – as much olive oil, honey and feta as we could physically carry.
Greece is the word this summer as the release of part two in the terrifyingly successful Mamma
Mia! franchise – Here We Go Again is bearing down fast.
An escape to the sun – and from Pierce Brosnan’s singing – has never seemed more timely.