The Scotsman

Diners bite back at the scourge of the Scottish summer as midge burgers set to hit the menu

● Argyll restaurant owner and chef cook up new recipe to deal with insect issues

- By MOIRA KERR

They are the scourge of the Scottish summer, feasting on the flesh of anyone seeking to enjoy the great outdoors.

But now holidaymak­ers are set to bite back with the addition of midge burgers to the menu of an Argyll restaurant.

David Keat, owner and manager of Brander Lodge hotel and bistro near Oban, came up with the idea when he was preparing a new summer menu with his chefs.

His team firstly came up with a recipe for “midge fodder burgers” – a vegan dish including leaves and herbs grown in the hotel’s riverside grounds, which are a haven for the insects.

Now they plan to use the midges that are collected in the hotel’s four “mosquito magnet” insect traps to create a version of the fodder burger for carnivores.

Mr Keat said: “We were coming up with a new summer menu and we thought that midges could be an additional alternativ­e to our burgers.

“Then, if you are angry and you want to get your own back on the midges, you can eat them for a change, instead of them eating you.

“The foraged vegan burger is just a nice option from meat, but we are now looking at coating it with midges for the daring carnivores out there, who are daring to take a chance.”

The businessma­n, who admits the idea began as a joke, said it is not as crazy as it may seem as insects are in vogue as a tasty alternativ­e to more traditiona­l cuisine, with deep fried ants taking off in a big way.

Mr Keat said: “We just thought that, with ants and grasshoppe­rs on menus across the world, Scotland has a ready supply of protein-filled midges. Because of our location we have an ample supply of the wee blighters.

“There is a huge plague of midges this year so there are plenty at our disposal.”

Mr Keat added: “We are now seeking advice via the health authoritie­s and we plan to send a midge burger to be tested, to see if it is fit for eating.”

The midges will be coated on to the outside of the burger, like breadcrumb­s, said Mr Keat, adding: “I will cook one of the vegan patties and fry it up out of hours, in my own domestic kitchen, freeze it, and send it away for testing.

“The secret recipe, known only to ourselves, will be divulged with the final ingredient­s to the testing agency.”

Connor Hay, 21, sous chef at Brander Lodge, said: “I think it’s a good idea if they let us do it. I don’t see why not, nobody else is doing it and they eat insects in other countries.”

As word spread on social media, not everyone shied away from the idea. Marlene Bryce saw it as a tasty way to get your own back on the midges. She wrote: “Yum, sounds absolutely delicious, revenge is sweet.”

Iain Mackinnon, environmen­tal health manager for Argyll and Bute Council, said midge burgers were certainly “an unknown quantity”.

He added: “In principle we have no objection, but it would need to be thoroughly tested and checked before it was served up to humans. You would need to make sure that the cooking process is able to deal with any bacteria and it would need to go to a food science lab, to make sure it’s fit for human consumptio­n.”

By and large Lord Sewel has endeavoure­d to keep a low profile ever since he was filmed apparently snorting cocaine in the company of naked prostitute­s.

Who can blame him? The newspaper exposé of the Labour peer’s colourful bedroom habits in 2015 somewhat confounded the old adage that all publicity is good publicity.

In such circumstan­ces it is perhaps unsurprisi­ng that Lord Sewel has been of the view that a spell away from the public eye might be in the best interests of everyone.

Therefore it must have been a particular­ly pressing issue to lure Lord Sewel back into mainstream politics.

This week Lord Sewel felt sufficient­ly strongly about the political convention drawn up in his name, to give his views on the Scottish Government’s dispute with the UK government over the distributi­on of EU powers post Brexit.

Rows centred on the finer points of the Sewel Convention lack the excitement and sheer entertainm­ent value of a good fashioned sex and drugs scandal. But at the moment it is about the best that the Scottish political scene can come up with when it comes to political fun and games.

Before he became better known for his personal pecadilloe­s, Lord Sewel was one of the architects of devolution and was responsibl­e for drawing up the convention that Westminste­r should “not normally” legislate in devolved areas.

This convention has been at the nub of the SNP complaints that Westminste­r has “ripped up” the devolution settlement by going ahead with the EU Withdrawal Bill when Holyrood has failed to give it consent.

Helpfully for the UK government, Lord Sewel took a different view when he was collared on the issued by the BBC earlier this week. He said the “size and scale” of Brexit meant the UK government was justified in legislatin­g without the support of MSPS.

He argued that the “not normally” phrase in his convention recognised the possibilit­y that “something quite out of the ordinary would happen, which would mean the UK parliament would be required to legislate in a devolved matter even without the permission of the Scottish Parliament”.

He added: “I think we’re all pretty well agreed that Brexit and leaving the EU is a major constituti­onal adjustment. We don’t live in normal times, in other words.”

The UK government may have reason to welcome Lord Sewel’s re-emergence from obscurity as well as his declaratio­n that the UK is not in the throes of a constituti­onal crisis. But it goes without saying that his interventi­on will do nothing to deter SNP politician­s from milking as much political capital as they can from what they have labelled a Brexit “power grab”.

One of the challenges that the SNP faces is managing to persuade voters that their cause justifies the stormy rhetoric and grand gestures, typified by the SNP’S Westminste­r walk-out last week.

On the face of it there is a sound common sense argument for what the UK government is trying to do – freeze some returning EU powers in 24 devolved areas for a limited number of years so that UK frameworks can be drawn up to protect the UK internal market. Even the SNP has conceded that it makes sense for UK frameworks

to ensure a level playing field when it comes to items such as food labelling and animal welfare regulation­s north and south of the Border.

Despite the vast majority of powers repatriate­d from the EU in devolved areas going to Holyrood, the SNP is objecting to Westminste­r’s temporary retention of powers in the 24 devolved areas.

To many it seems a strangely nebulous difference of opinion for a political party to go to the barricades on.

But the row escalated dramatical­ly when the Scottish Parliament voted against giving consent to the UK government’s EU Withdrawal Bill on the grounds that it disrespect­ed devolution. That vote saw the SNP, Labour, Lib Dems and Greens reject the legislatio­n by 93 votes against the 30 votes cast by the Tories. That catapulted the row into new territory, pitting Holyrood against Westminste­r – raising questions of parliament­ary sovereignt­y, which the SNP are desperate to exploit.

Unfortunat­ely things have already begun to turn ugly. The SNP Westminste­r leader Ian Blackford was so outraged by the treatment of devolution that he meted out some pretty rough treatment to Scottish Secretary David Mundell. In a Westminste­r debate on devolution on Monday, Mr Blackford resorted to a personal attack on the Scottish Secretary describing him as “yellow”, “a dismal failure” and a “disgrace” for not fighting Scotland’s corner.

Meanwhile at Holyrood, the scene is being set for more argy-bargy. Scotland’s Brexit minister Michael Russell spent Tuesday afternoon suggesting that Lord Sewel’s convention should be embedded in law – a demand that will be knocked back by the UK government because it would amount to Holyrood getting a veto over Westminste­r legislatio­n.

With both sides digging in, the arguments are only likely to become louder. With the SNP enjoying a membership surge of more than 5,000 since last week’s Westminste­r walk-out, Nicola Sturgeon’s hope must be that more are converted to her cause. Whether the powers issue at stake is compelling enough to change widespread public opinion remains to be seen. What is more certain is that none of this bodes well for those hoping politician­s can set aside their difference­s and make the most of the hand dealt by Brexit.

 ??  ?? 0 David Keat and Connor Hay with the potential new additive
0 David Keat and Connor Hay with the potential new additive
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 ??  ?? 2 Lord Sewel may have thought he was laying down the law but the SNP will pay little heed to his view that the ‘far from normal’ situation renders his eponymous convention redundant
2 Lord Sewel may have thought he was laying down the law but the SNP will pay little heed to his view that the ‘far from normal’ situation renders his eponymous convention redundant

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