Food & Drink
Pickling when produce is at its best and cheapest will give you flavour to enjoy in the weeks ahead
Pickled produce from Neil Forbes, plus Rose Murray Brown on Pét nats
Most of us enjoy something pickled with a hunk of tangy cheese or a thick slice of proper ham. The sharpness of the pickling vinegar helps to balance the richness of what you are eating.
I love the history of pickled things and finding out more about how we used to eat. For example, many years ago in Shetland there was a ceremony known as the “breakin doon o’ da mert”, meaning to slaughter the fattened beast for wintertime. This was usually done at the end of the summer when the cattle had a good amount of meat and fat on the bone, ideal for preserving over the winter. In those times, such preservation skills could keep families alive.
Nowadays, pickling is perfect for those who enjoy buying seasonal food from markets when it’s at its cheapest and best. Beetroot is a classic, cauliflower is great, as are onions to go with your fish and chips. But it’s good to try pickling different things like courgettes, carrots and radishes. And it’s not just veg. Pickled ox tongue, roll mop and soused herrings are also delicious.
We may not be as well known for pickling as the Scandinavians, but we do seem to pickle things rather well. So why not give it a try?
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Ham hock terrine with pickled cucumber
There are two elements in this recipe. The salted hock, or knuckle, from the pig, and the pickled cucumber. Together they are astonishingly good. The sharp, sweet vegetable does its job to cut through the rich, salty protein. I like to add other seasonings to the flaked meat like Arran mustard and lots of curly parsley. This is where you can have fun and do your own thing. Try different herbs that you may be growing, or play with different veg to go with it. Remember to keep the stock that you’ve cooked the hocks in, as it makes the best soup in the world. Just add a handful of peasemeal or red lentils.
Serves six to eight
3 unsmoked ham hocks 1 stick celery 2 carrots, peeled 1 onion, peeled and halved 6 peppercorns 2 bay leaves 1 sprig thyme 2 spring onions, finely chopped 125g unsalted butter, melted 2 tbsp curly parsley, chopped 1 tbsp Arran Mustard (or any grain mustard will do), and a further 1 tsp 1 cucumber 500ml good cider vinegar (and an additional splash) 500g caster sugar 500ml cold water 2 star anise a few mustard seeds a few handfuls of salad leaves a few radishes, sliced 4 tbsp olive oil good salt and pepper
1
Place the hocks in a large pot and cover with cold water. Add the celery, carrots, onion, peppercorns, bay and thyme and bring to just below a rolling boil and simmer for 4 hours, skimming off any residue and adding more water if required. Don’t over boil.
2 Once cooked and the meat is falling off the bone, remove the hocks from the pot and allow them to cool slightly, before flaking all the meat off the bone. Retain the celery, carrots and onion. Keep the fat for another dish and retain the stock for soup.
3 Roughly chop the carrots, onion and celery from the stock pot and add them to a bowl with the flaked meat, melted butter, mustard, spring onions and parsley. Mix thoroughly and check the seasoning.
4 Line a terrine mould or plastic tub with oiled cling film – oiled side down. Pack the terrine mix into the mould and fold over the cling film so it covers the terrine entirely. Place something heavy on top to press it down and refrigerate overnight.
5 To make the pickled cucumber, bring the water, sugar and vinegar to the boil then add the mustard seeds, star anise and a teaspoon of salt. Add the cucumber to the pot – you may have to halve the cucumber if it’s too long – that’s fine as it won’t affect the final taste. Cover with a lid and simmer for about an hour until the cucumber is just soft. Then turn off the heat and leave it to cool in the pickling liquid. Once cooled, cut into slices and set to one side.
6 Make a dressing by mixing 4 tablespoons of olive oil, one teaspoon of Arran Mustard and a splash of vinegar.
7 To serve, place a slice of the terrine in the centre of a plate and arrange the pickled cucumber around or on top. Garnish with a few salad leaves and slices of radish trickled with the dressing. Serve at once.
Piccalilli
You can’t get more British than this sweet, sharp condiment. It’s remarkably easy to make, full of flavour and keeps well in sterilised jars. A great gift at Christmas, to devour with a pie made from leftovers. And just as good in summer with, well, anything really. Be careful not to add the finished piccalilli to a plastic container as the mustard powder and turmeric will stain it bright orange.
Makes four to six Kilner jars’ worth
500g small pickling onions, peeled 1 large or 2 small cauliflowers 2 red peppers, I like the Ramiro variety 2 carrots, peeled 2 courgettes, scrubbed 15g English mustard powder 1 large red chilli, finely sliced 500ml cider vinegar 4 tsp turmeric 170g caster sugar 2 tbsp cornflour a few sprigs of thyme good salt and pepper
1 Fill a large pan with water and a small handful of salt and bring it to the boil on the hob.
2 Meanwhile, cut the veg into bitesize pieces and place in the pot to blanch for 1 minute. Remove from the pan and refresh in cold running or iced water. Drain the veg when cold and place into a large bowl with the thyme and chilli and season with salt and pepper.
3 Place the vinegar in a large pan with the sugar. When just about to boil add the turmeric, mustard powder and cornflour. To thicken, the flour must come to the boil, then carefully simmer for a minute or so. Keep an eye on this. Season
and add this thick yellow paste to the veg and mix thoroughly.
4 Place into sterilised jars and serve with your next ham, pie or terrine. It also tastes great with toasted sourdough and a good salad.
Pickled cherries
This is a lovely way to preserve surplus cherries. I am lucky to have a tree in my garden and although we don’t get a huge amount of fruit from it, it’s enough to try different things. They are delicious eaten fresh, warmed by the sun, but pickling them transforms them into something very different but just as delicious. They’re great with a roasted duck breast salad, or with salami and prosciutto. Give it a go.
Makes one jar
500g British cherries, stones in 2 bay leaves 1 chilli, split with seeds in 100g caster sugar 4 peppercorns 4 coriander seeds 150ml cider vinegar 150ml cold water good salt
1 Bring the water, vinegar and sugar to near boiling in a large pan, then add the chilli, peppercorns, coriander seeds and bay leaves and allow to simmer gently for a few minutes. Taste and add salt if required before adding the cherries.
2 I prefer to keep the stones in the fruit as they stay in better form when left whole, otherwise they can turn to mush. Ensure the fruit is submerged – placing a small plate on top of the fruit can help.
3 Cook the fruit in the pickle liquor for 5 to 7 minutes on a low simmer. Allow to cool before spooning into sterilised jars. They will keep well in the fridge.