The Scotsman

Large ‘industrial’ slaughterh­ouses a necessary evil

- Fordyce Maxwell

Idon’t know if “good old days” syndrome is the correct term for thinking everything was better in the past, but it will do. There’s a lot of it about and slaughterh­ouses are on the list.

The basic complaint is that bureaucrac­y has closed hundreds of smallscale slaughterh­ouses in the past 20 or 30 years. The bonus for believers in the good old days who have a grievance about the present system is that most of the rules governing slaughterh­ouses are related to membership of the European Union.

That’s probably why the French word abattoir became the favoured descriptio­n rather than good old British slaughterh­ouse. Under either word, rules now include the presence of a vet and, from the end of this year, CCTV to cover the premises.

The complaint from owners of small slaughterh­ouses and farmers who use them is the cost of providing vets and cameras and complying with many of the other rules on hygiene and good practice.

They say they can’t compete with “industrial scale” slaughterh­ouses where, they claim, in spite of all legislatio­n many animals are ill-treated and probably tortured during the countdown to slaughter.

Advocates for local slaughter also point out that sheep, cattle, pigs and poultry have to endure travel over increasing­ly long distances from farms before they reach a slaughterh­ouse. That is bad, they say, when the animals could almost walk to a local slaughterh­ouse, in the process meeting demand for locally-produced meat in a small geographic­al area. Video and eyewitness evidence in recent years has confirmed, convincing­ly, that some animals are badly treated between arrival and killing at some slaughterh­ouses. The abuse is usually involved when trying to get reluctant animals to move along to the slaughter point.

There has also been evidence that some slaughterm­en are callous and careless when killing. Animal welfare organisati­ons obviously, and fairly, home in and denounce this sort of treatment, as they do with occasional video evidence from so-called factory farms.

A recent example of that was cruel treatment of pigs on a farm in the south of England, the crucial point being that the farm was a member of the Red Tractor scheme, a food label guarantee to shoppers that the meat they buy is produced under strict good animal welfare rules.

“Farm Animals Tortured Under Red Tractor Label” was the headline, but the story made the valid point that only about one inspection in a thousand under the scheme was unannounce­d. In almost every case, a farm was given notice of an inspection and could make preparatio­ns or hide evidence of bad practice.

Monitoring farm quality schemes has never been easy since the concept was introduced. Most producers try hard and honestly to comply, but there will always be some who cheat. And, as with larger slaughterh­ouses, managing thousands of animals is not easy. Mistakes are made and some pictures, such as lots of pigs lying tight-packed, look worse to a layman than they do to a stockman who sees contented animals.

As for slaughterh­ouses, the point to remember is that at one time Britain had thousands of small slaughterh­ouses, many no more than backyard operations, and many were dirty and unhygienic. Legislatio­n to get rid of them was welcomed by consumer groups. Now they’re being touted as the good old days.

Big, modern, hygienic, slaughterh­ouses with vets in attendance and close supervisio­n at every stage were built to handle much bigger numbers and designed to reduce stress for animals as much as possible. Animals might have to travel further to get to them, but loading and unloading are the most stressful parts of the trip, regardless of its length.

And yet again, the crucial point has to be said: that if we continue to eat meat, animals have to be killed to provide it and there is no known way of making that a pleasant process. There is blood and guts and excrement, feathers and skin and smells.

I’ve seen large and modern and small and blood caked and know which I prefer. I accept that there must be well-run, humane, hygienic small slaughterh­ouses, but claiming that small is best just because it’s small is a mistake.

 ??  ?? 0 Modern slaughterh­ouses are designed to reduce stress.
0 Modern slaughterh­ouses are designed to reduce stress.
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