There’s value in Piedmont, if you know where to look
Piedmont is home to some of Italy’s finest wines often with outrageously high price tags – yet there is a lot more to offer here than just its hauntingly beautiful barolo and elegant barbaresco.
In this northwest corner of Italy, it might seem surprising that muscat is the most planted white, making copious quantities of sweeter frizzante and spumante. But Piedmont also makes some superbly elegant dry whites – from the bracingly fresh cortese, floral blossomy arneis, herby favorita and honeyed fleshy timorasso grapes.
Amongst the red grapes, nebbiolo has historically hogged the best sites to make barolo and barbaresco. In the past Langhe Nebbiolo, the ‘second’ wine from this grape was often disappointingly rustic and tannic, but quality has improved enormously.
The most planted red grape is not nebbiolo, but the cherry-fruited barbera covering 33 per cent of Piedmont’s vineyards, known for its high acid and mild tannins produced in differing styles from around the towns of Asti and Alba.
Cortese: Truly Irresistible Gavi 2017 Broglia
Cortese has been grown in Piedmont since the 17th century and is best known as the grape of gavi. This is vibrant and crisp with a lemony freshness. It beat off stiff competition from Lidl and Aldi’s gavi in our tasting.
£7.99, Co-op
Cortese: Gavi Di Gavi 2017 Broglia
This is made by the same producer as Co-op’s gavi, the esteemed Broglia family, who made their money in textiles and bought the winery in the 1970s just as gavi was starting to become popular. A distinct step up in quality compared to other supermarket examples – hence the price. Herby, limey, citric aromas with a vivid minerally palate and creamy almondy finish.
£15.99, Waitrose
Arneis: Arneis Langhe 2017 Ascheri
Very popular with tasters for its combination of blossom and pearskin aromas, herby aniseed undertones, full body and fresh vibrant length.
£13.50, Marks & Spencer
Timorasso: Timorasso Derthona 2015 La Colombera
The Semino family, who own La Colombera, are one of Piedmont’s wineries to watch. They plant the ancient local timorasso grape on clay soils in the hills of Tortona, east of Alba. After long skin contact and lees ageing, but no oak, the wine develops a rich creamy texture and with time in bottle this wine develops wonderful honey and acacia aromas.
£22.50, Raeburn Wines
Chardonnay & Sauvignon Blanc: Dragon Langhe Bianco 2017 Luigi Baudana
An unexpected find amongst so many Italian varietal wines. This unoaked four grape blend of 40 per cent chardonnay, 30 per cent sauvignon blanc, 25 per cent local nascetta with a touch of riesling scored very highly for its enchanting citric, almond and floral aromas and its rich, creamy savoury palate.
£13.95-£15.99, Drinkmonger, Gloagburn Farm Shop, Valhalla’s Goat, Valvona & Crolla
Barbera: Barbera D’alba Sori’ Del Drago 2014 Fratelli Brovia
From a tiny south facing 0.8 hectare vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, within the Barolo region and made by long established Brovia family, this is delicious with ripe plum, strawberry and classic black cherry fruits with a lovely subtlety and spiciness. £20.99, Raeburn Wines, Edinburgh
Barbera: Barbera D’asti Superiore 2015 Oddero
It is worth paying more for the Superiore version of Barbera d’asti, made from selected grapes and aged longer in wood: Oddero aged this 18 months in French and Austrian oak. It shows Barbera’s depth and complexity, rich blackcherry fruits, spicy undertones and cocoa flavours.
£20, Woodwinters, Edinburgh, Bridge of Allan & Inverness, www.woodwinters.com
Nebbiolo: Langhe Nebbiolo 2016 G D Vajra
Often described as a baby barolo, this comes from youthful nebbiolo vines from the warm summer of 2016. Our most popular red in the tasting for its super charged ripe fruits, herbaceous flavours and soft silky tannins.
£17.50-£24.99, Aitken Wines, Cornelius Wines, Drinkmonger, Eusebi, Exel Wines, Lockett Bros, Beerhive, Fine Wine Co, Valhalla’s Goat, Valvona & Crolla, The Wine Society
Nebbiolo: Langhe Nebbiolo 2015 Sottimano
Made from younger vines in Neive, home of barbaresco, Andrea Sottimano’s cuvée is hauntingly elegant with pretty violet scented aromas, rich red berry fruits, fine tannins and a long finish. Sottimano also makes excellent Barbera d’alba too. £19.75, www.leaandsandeman. co.uk
Dolcetto: Dolcetto D’alba Cascina Adelaide 2015
If you like beaujolais, you might well enjoy this dolcetto – at its best served slightly chilled. I often find dolcetto a touch too bitter, but this example from Sergio Molino is very smooth with cherry and strawberry fruits. ■
£17.99, Virgin Wines
Join Rose’s Piedmont v Veneto wine and Italian charcuterie tasting at The Royal Scots Club in Edinburgh, 25 October, £50, www.rose murraybrown. com