Kirkwall

Friday, midday

Check into the Foveran (doubles from £125, www.thefoveran.com), a cosy restaurant with eight rooms overlooking the natural harbour of Scapa Flow, with its epic war history.

1pm

Head into town for lunch at Judith Glue Real Food Café and Restaurant (www.judithglue.com), where Orkney Gold beef and local hand dived scallops tempt. Don’t miss the arts and craft shop on site, which has been here long before the cruise ships brought a raft of options.

3pm

The grandstand tourist attraction is vast St Magnus Cathedral. Delve in to a world alive with Viking ghosts.

4pm

Slip next door to the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces and learn about the controversial Scots earls who were once besieged within the walls. Climb the tower for a view over Kirkwall.

6pm

Taste one of the award winning gins at the brand new bar at the slick Orkney Distillery (www. orkneydistilling.com).

8pm

Dine at the lively Helgi’s pub (www. helgis.co.uk) and savour their shellfish mash laced with Orkney scallops, king prawns and mussels.

Saturday, 9.15am

Take a guided tour of the remarkable Ness of Brodgar Neolithic site (https://orkneyheritagetours.co.uk), where new treasures are regularly unearthed. Or travel here yourself and take in the Ring of Brodgar and Stones of Stenness too.

Midday

Enjoy a quick sandwich (with Orkney Cheddar, of course) en route to the world famous Highland Park distillery (www.highlandparkwhisky. com), where their Viking Experience lets you tour then purchase an exclusive single cask bottling.

2pm

Move on to the lesser-known Scapa distillery (http://scapawhisky.com), where a sweet and gentler malt awaits.

7pm

Ease back for dinner at the Foveran for a variety of locally caught seafood, with head chef Paul Doull at the helm.

Sunday, 9am

Take a walk along the shores of Scapa Flow thinking of the sailors who died here in both World Wars. ■ Northlink Ferries (www. northlinkferries.co.uk) connect Aberdeen, Scrabster and Shetland with Orkney. More information www.visitscotland.com