The Scotsman

Food & Drink

A Christmas feast need not be expensive to be utterly delicious

- Neil forbes @chefneilfo­rbes

Neil Forbes keeps it simple with pheasant, plus Rose Murray Brown on the best reds for the big day

Iam not Ebenezer Scrooge, but an occasional “bah humbug” passes my lips at this time of year. I’m a lover of Christmas traditions, but the commercial sales pitches are simply ridiculous.

This time of year should be about people, loved ones, us, you. I don’t see it as a time to max the credit card or be competitiv­e. A simple, subtle celebratio­n. I bolt the door and share this special time with family, and it’s wonderful. Of course, the food is integral and we plan what we’ll eat weeks, if not months, in advance. This year it’s pheasant – inexpensiv­e and delicious.

The image of a Christmass­y Victorian street scene that we have in our minds – with game hanging from shop fronts – is very Dickensian, but really not so far away from today. Many of us queue for turkeys, chickens, hams and beef from the butchers or the farmers’ market on the last day possible, whilst veg sells out on market stalls and in shops. Even our home-made Cafe St Honoré Christmas pudding sells out before the celebratio­ns really kick in.

So, I say, let’s have less tat, and a more thoughtful, peaceful time of year where we don’t overspend on needless food, drink and gifts. Let’s think of others around us. Sometimes just to be there is the best gift of all.

Brose

I have written about brose before but it’s worth repeating not only how delicious and important this dish is to our food heritage, but also how good it is for us. The slow release carbs and creamy flavour of the soaked oats works so well, and I can’t stop eating it. It can replace potatoes, polenta, rice, or any other carb on your plate. Here, adding beef fat to the onions is a must, but any animal fat will do. Get beef fat from a stall-holder or butcher. The aromas that fill the air as the onions fry is perfect.

Serves four

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 200g pinhead oats, soaked overnight in cold water 1 tbsp beef fat or dripping a knob of butter 1 tbsp chopped parsley, optional a handful of kale good salt and pepper

1 Remove the stalks from the kale and blanch in boiling, salted water for 2 to 3 minutes, then refresh in cold water. Chop roughly and set aside.

2 Melt the beef fat in a large pot and, once hot, add the onions and season. Don’t colour the onions as they may burn. Keep the heat around medium. Continue cooking until the onions are translucen­t and soft.

3 Drain the oats, add them to the onions with a glass of water and bring them to the boil, stirring continuous­ly. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes on a low to medium heat, making sure it doesn’t stick to the pan.

4 Add the chopped kale and season again. Then add the butter and some chopped parsley. Serve at once. It’s great as a side dish, or as a starter with a few slices of roasted meat like chicken or beef.

Breast of pheasant, chestnut, orange, bacon, sprouts and thyme

This is a delicious dish. The sprouts are quartered which stops them being overcooked and brown, or worse, undercooke­d and crisp. I use vac pac chestnuts as they are good, tasty and easy to use. If you have time on your hands, roast whole chestnuts on an open fire. The addition of orange and thyme gives a sense of Christmas. Just be careful not to overcook the meat as it can easily become dry and tough.

Serves one

1 breast of pheasant, skin on 1 tbsp chestnuts, halved 1 tbsp bacon lardons, cut chunky

1 tsp chopped orange zest and thyme 3 or 4 sprouts 1 tbsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil a knob of butter good salt and pepper

1 Heat the oven to 220C/gas Mark 7. 2 Cut the sprouts into quarters and blanch in boiling, salted water for 2 minutes, then refresh in cold water.

3 Heat the oil to a medium heat in a large, oven-proof frying pan and add the pheasant skin-side-down, then season with salt and pepper. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then turn and continue to cook for a further 3 to 4 minutes.

4 Add the bacon lardons to the pan and cook until golden. This should take 4 to 5 minutes whilst the pheasant is cooking.

5 Place the pan in the oven and cook for 5 minutes. Remove and add the butter, chestnuts, zest of orange and thyme, and sprouts, and give the pan a toss to combine everything.

6 Remove the pheasant and let it rest for a few minutes in a warm place before giving it a final season. To serve, arrange the garnish around the pheasant on a warm plate and serve with gravy if you like, or a cream and tarragon sauce would work too.

Pear and almond tart, crème fraîche

I’m lucky and have space to grow fruit in my garden and allotment, but we can all ask our neighbours if they have any spare, or get access to a local share site online and find someone who has a glut of fruit when it’s in season. Any spare fruit I have goes to Cafe St Honoré kitchen, where recently Maison Forbes pears were used in a tart made to this recipe.

Serves four

2 pears

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 ??  ?? Breast of pheasant, chestnut, orange, bacon, sprouts and thyme, main; pear and almond tart, crème fraîche, above
Breast of pheasant, chestnut, orange, bacon, sprouts and thyme, main; pear and almond tart, crème fraîche, above
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