Moomin landing
With a new animated series reigniting interest in Tove Jansson’s cult charaters, Sarah Marshall goes in search of Moomins in Finland
Finland’s love affair with Tove Jansson’s characters
Larger than an igloo and just as solid, The Groke appears lost in her own icy thoughts. Gaze fixed on an empty space, Tove Jansson’s lumpy, lonely and largely misunderstood character bares her trademark grimace and, in keeping with the cult Moomin books, she’s literally frozen to the spot.
Expertly sculpted from eight blocks of Lapland’s finest ice, the mysterious creature is part of an ambitious new ice cave exhibit at the Vesileppis Resort in Leppavirta, a small town in Finland’s central Lakeland region. Inspired by Moominland Midwinter, Jansson’s fifth Moomin book which marked a more introspective and philosophical departure for the series, the attraction features 16 tableaux, set amid snow scenes and slides, all chilled at minus four degrees Celsius, 30 metres below the hotel.
It cost almost €30,000 to transport and store blocks harvested from the Lainio and Puruvesi rivers, where currents slow the icing process, leaving it clear and bubble-free. Anne Lantto from the resort’s marketing department justifies the the expense by declaring: “Moomins deserve the best.”
Anne, like thousands of other Finns, is a dedicated fan of the Moomins, a family of flumpy, wide-eyed creatures resembling bipedal, albino hippos, whose sense of adventure and thought-provoking aphorisms appeal to a cross-section of generations. And when Vesileppis’ own icy inhabitants take a long summer dip in August, she hints (and hopes) they may be returning in some other form next year.
Born from childhood stories of ghouls guarding candy cupboards, Moomintroll became artist and author Tove Jansson’s alter-ego, later starring in nine illustrated story books, published between 1945 and 1970 and shaped by a period of postwar confusion and despair.
The inhabitants of Moominvalley first found international fame in the 1950s, and their appeal has only continued to grow. This month, Japan plans to open a theme park in the city of Hanno, and next month a new animated TV series by Gutsy Animations will be broadcast on Sky.
I’m in Finland for the programme’s premiere, attended by British voice stars Jennifer Saunders, Rosamund Pike and Taron Egerton, so after a short but blissful stay in Lakeland, I board a six-hour train south from Kuopio to capital city, Helsinki.
A fan of the Moomins since childhood, when I was given a book with a note promising me a visit to Moominvalley one day, I’ve loved them even more as an adult. Beyond the charming illustrations and poetic
Snorkmaidens decorate tea towels and Snufkins function as cookie cutters
storytelling, it’s the sentiments they evoke; from flower-strewn forests to rough seas and misty winter suns, the landscapes are distinctly Nordic, reflecting a love of nature, even in its darkest forms.
Outside the train window, a labyrinth of lakes now forms a skate rink looping clusters of pine forest, branches buckling under the weight of fresh snow. Around 74 per cent of Finland is covered by trees, making it the most densely forested country in Europe, and dressed in winter whites, their regimented spines are fleshed out with all sorts of monstrous, amorphous limbs. “Some of my favourite book covers are of landscapes,” says Moomin expert and author Sirke Happonen, who has even penned academic papers on the subject. Over dinner later that evening at Elite restaurant, an elegant 1930s-style salon once frequented by Tove Jansson, she shows me a collection of first editions, neatly packed into her canvas knapsack.
“Tove loved nature and flowers, and these often appeared in her illustrations,” she explains, showing me a drawing of a horse smothered in colourful petals.
The prospect of a trip to Glasgow at the start of the year was something I was sold on and looking forward to – despite being a born-and-bred Edinburgher now living in the glorious Kingdom of Fife. Maybe, it was the time of year with the atmospheric light fading early and a chill wind biting as I made my way from Buchanan Bus Station to St Vincent Place after a short hop from the Halbeath Park and Ride but I was well up for this. The prospect of getting all cosy at the Anchor Line Building smack bang in the middle of town was just the tonic as I planned two days of exploring this dear green place. Having just read a book on Red Clydeside and with the 100th anniversary of the Battle of George Square fast approaching it was exciting to be living a stone’s throw from the scene of Scotland’s brief flirtation with revolution. I was also keen to check out Sir Billy Connolly’s old haunts in the Gallowgate including the Saracen Head boozer. The Anchor Line Building, the one-time HQ for a family-run shipbroking business, has an imposing white facade that gives it an olde worlde air harking back to the Jazz Age and the opulence of ocean liner cruises. The seven storey icon was built in 1906 and has been brought into the 21st century as a state-of-the-art 64 unit aparthotel by the team at Native Glasgow. This Art Deco building’s ground and basement floors currently house the excellent Anchor Line restaurant and Atlantic restaurant – popular with locals looking to pop on their gladrags and dine in style. A multi-million pound refurbishment of the remaining six floors has been completed to create the Anchor Line Apartments. I was lucky to be staying in one of the stylish penthouses on the top floor, with onebed studio apartments also available. The original details are retained on the front of the building and the array of nautical emblems, seaweed and shell details give the place unique character. Features dating back to 1906 have been kept intact, so glazed tiles, terrazzo flooring, timber-wall panelling and stunning fireplaces help retain the feel of a working building steeped in glamour from a bygone era. After putting the kettle on and downing the complimentary doughnuts I stepped onto the balcony for a quick reccie of my surroundings. I had a stunning view of the city and could make out people packing up for the evening in their offices. Literally, everything is on your doorstep here and this would be the
ideal accommodation for couples looking to treat themselves or those looking to make a weekend of it in the centre of Glasgow. The penthouse and serviced apartments offer fully equipped kitchens, 24-hour reception with friendly and welcoming staff as well as the two on-site restaurants. After a pleasant night’s kip I decided to explore what Glasgow, one-time European City of Culture in 1990 had to offer by way of eh?...culture. I turned a corner and banged straight into the Duke of Wellington statue with the cone on his head – a good sign I was off to a flyer.
I soaked up a bit of the old ambience at The Gallery of Modern Art then went for a massive wander. Glasgow like Edinburgh has a relatively small city centre, just the ticket for a gentle stroll round the place. I checked out everywhere I fancied – George Square, Merchant City, the People’s Palace, Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum without venturing into any shops – something Glasgow is famous for. I even explored the Finnieston area and saw lesser-spotted hipsters aplenty – while stopping off for a flat white, with oat milk and some
A room at the Anchor Line Building, main; the exterior of the aparthotel, above
avocado on toast. Lovely. After a hard day’s sauntering I made it back to the old/new Anchor Line for a quick freshen up before heading down to the Atlantic Brasserie for what can only be described as some ‘barry scran’. The locals were bedecked in their finery as my friend and I tucked into some steak and chips washed down with a couple of bottles of non-alcoholic lager. Damn decent. The next morning I headed for the Buchanan Street Bus Station ready to make the 75-minute bus trip back to west Fife. I couldn’t believe how easy the travelling had been. I would thoroughly recommend the Anchor Line if you’re looking for a city break and Glasgow has a lot to offer in terms of galleries and restaurants. The pubs and clubs speak for themselves and there’s always plenty of live music on in a city that I would have to describe as... fair buzzing. ■
The building has an olde worlde air harking back to the Jazz Age
Native Glasgow, The Anchor Line Building, 14 St Vincent Place, Glasgow G1 2EU (020 7313 3886, www. nativeplaces.com). One-bedroom studio apartment from £70 per night, Penthouse one bedroom from £134 per night. Glasgow Central and Queen Street stations and Buchanan Street subway and bus station are all a five minute walk from the apartments.