Ryan Hooper

Reclining on the sundrenched terrace of the Al Shurfa restaurant – a light selection of Middle Eastern meze to one side, a small cup of piping hot Arabic coffee known as qahwa to the other – it’s almost impossible not to gaze at the stunning skyline across the water of Doha’s West Bay and smile smugly.

Beyond the impressive Museum of Islamic Art in the foreground – a tribute to modern geometrical design and free to enter, Doha’s financial district stands tall and proud. In answer to London’s ‘Gherkin’ and ‘Cheesegrater’, there is an ‘Ice Cream Cone’ and, ahem, well, let’s just say the rounded and tapered outline of one particular tower causes locals to whisper its bawdy moniker under their breaths.

The vista from where we are sat on Doha’s Corniche promenade screams out to be plastered all over social media, long before the

“We are finding that people are coming here for wellness”

sandstorm that approaches us – a rare occurrence, apparently – gives everything a sepia hue.

Al Shurfa belongs to one of nine boutique Tivoli-branded hotels clustered together around the Qatari capital’s bustling souqs, where locals gather to chat in tourist-friendly majlis lounges, drink coffee and haggle for goods.

The oldest property, Bismillah, was built in the early 1950s and is still going strong, but Tivoli has more ambitious future plans.

Ahead of the 2022 FIFA World Cup, there’s a flurry of development in the small but wealthy Arab country, which juts out like a thumb from Saudi Arabia and is washed by The courtyard of Souq Al Wakra Hotel, main; the Museum of Islamic Art, above the Arabian Gulf. Developers are constantly working to create around 40,000 new rooms in the region, in time to welcome guests.

Opened in August last year, Tivoli’s Al Najada Doha is one example. Located within a new development in the heart of central Souq Al Najada, the five-star property blends Arabic flair with European elegance. All 151 indulgent guest rooms and suites have been exquisitely designed, with upper floors offering spectacular views of the Doha skyline, including the Corniche and the West Bay.

The other, which also opened at the same time, is Souq Al Wakra Hotel

Many of Doha’s new properties have beachside views and luxurious facilities, but there are some sticking points which could deter European tourists. Rules stipulate people must dress conservatively, swimming in the sea is discouraged and many of the hotels are dry, offering mocktails rather than beers, wines and spirits. “We are finding that people are coming here for wellness, and it is easy to do here when it’s dry,” says Mohammed Zameer, assistant director of sales at Souq Al Wakra Hotel Qatar.

“But obviously it’s not for everyone. The first criteria is having a set of guests who are interested in the culture or the heritage. We are not