I want people to feel a bit uncomfortable when they visit this exhibition and to really think about why it might make them respond that way

As the fashion industry finally wakes up to the fact the population isn’t all young, thin and white, a new exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland celebrates the growing trend for diversity on the catwalk, writes Angela Wyld

Diversity is not a word which has traditionally been associated with the fashion industry. On the contrary, fashion has something of a reputation for a focus on a narrow definition of beauty; namely thin, young and white. Furthermore, representations of disabled or transgender people have been notably absent from catwalks. Until recently that is.

Reports of the Autumn Winter 2017 collections at fashion weeks around the world noted that catwalks were becoming more diverse than ever. Weeks later, Edward Enninful was appointed editor- in- chief of British Vogue, and made his intentions for improving diversity in the magazine’s pages clear from his appointment, telling one interviewer “I’m black, I’m gay, I’m not rich and I’m not thin.”

It feels rather timely, therefore, that the National Museum of Scotland will explore the increase in diversity in fashion in the first exhibition of its kind in the world. Body Beautiful: Diversity on the Catwalk has just opened and it examines how today’s fashion industry is challenging perceptions and championing alternative ideals of beauty on the

catwalk, in advertising, editorial and behind the camera.

The exhibition examines how fashion creatives are embracing inclusivity and body positivity by exploring five key themes: size; gender; age; race and disability. Sponsored by Edinburgh St James and supported by Arts & Business Scotland through its Culture & Business Fund Scotland, the exhibition champions the people, designs, and voices influencing positive body image and inclusivity, presenting key looks which show pivotal developments in contemporary fashion.

“This is an exciting time for fashion,” says Georgina Ripley, the curator of Body Beautiful. “The fashion world is calling into question existing practice, and many people in the industry are beginning to realise that they must address diversity from the inside out to reappraise contemporary ideals of beauty.”

For Ripley, this means much more than designers booking models who sit outside that thin, young and white aesthetic, although that’s certainly a start. “For the industry to become truly diverse, it must embrace diversity on and off the

Clockwise from main: the Curve Catwalk, staged by Simply Be on the eve of London Fashion Week, 2017; academic and writer Sinéad Burke, wearing a custom Burberry trench coat; model Denise Bidot on the runway at the Chromat SS15 Formula 15 fashion show

catwalk, in front of and behind the camera,” she says. “When we see true diversity among the creatives who shape trends and dictate our fashion choices, that will trickle down. The industry isn’t there yet, but recent seasons suggest that it’s moving in the right direction.”

For this reason, the exhibition opens with a film capturing the different perspectives of key influencers in the industry. These include Jamie Windust, editorin- chief of FRUITCAKE magazine – who speaks on behalf of the queer, non- binary and gender nonconforming communities – and the disabled academic and writer Sinéad Burke, for whom Scottish designer Christopher Kane has made a number of custom outfits, one of which is on display in the exhibition.

Visitors to Body Beautiful will have the chance to see a camel coat and matching hijab from Max Mara’s AW17 collection which were worn on the catwalk by Somali- American model Halima Aden. She was the first hijab- wearing model to walk the international high- fashion catwalks.

Then there’s a dramatic, cagelike bustier from Chromat’s SS15 collection. The piece was modelled by Denise Bidot, who made history as the first plus- size model to open a straight- size show at New York Fashion Week.

From the “heroin chic” aesthetic of the 1990s to the glossy Instagram accounts of today’s mega- models, an obsession with body size is one of the areas for which the industry has historically come in for the most criticism. However the UK plus- size market is worth a whopping £ 6.6 billion with high street brand Simply Be among those leading the way. In 2017, their “Curve Catwalk” featured a wide range of models wearing T- shirts with their dress size boldly emblazoned on the front, and the T- shirt worn by British plus- size model Felicity Hayward will be on display.

In an industry which fetishises youth, models are officially considered old when they hit 40. However many of the ‘ original’ supermodels who made waves in the Nineties are still working today. When Belgian designer Dries Van Noten showcased his 100th collection in March 2017, he staged an epic international reunion of 54 models of all ages who have walked for him from 1993 onwards. A look from this collection will be on show, in addition to material which celebrates diverse ages behind the camera. On display will be images by pioneering fashion photographer Chris Moore, who is still working at the age of 85.

Mal Burkinshaw is programme director for fashion at Edinburgh College of Art ( ECA) and heads up the Diversity Network. A collaboration

The UK plus- size market is worth a whopping £ 6.6 billion

between ECA and All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, an initiative challenging the fashion industry’s dependence on one body ideal, the Diversity Network promotes “emotionally considerate” design.

In creating Body Beautiful, National Museums Scotland assembled an advisory panel to ensure that a broad range of voices and experts in the field of diversity inform the exhibition’s content and accompanying programming. Burkinshaw, who sits on the advisory panel, believes it is crucial that fashion students carefully consider the real people who will wear their designs.

“The connection between clothing, health and well- being is widely documented, so for our fashion students, our future designers, it is vitally important that they can broaden and celebrate all types of beauty through their work,” he says. “It simply makes sense to allow the students the space to consider diversity if they ultimately want to address future global markets.”

The exhibition will feature a design by ECA graduate Supriya Lele, whose work examines her Indian heritage and British cultural identity. Lele explores the nuances of British Asian culture and Anglo- Indian dress, borrowing from the sensual drapery of the sari and her own photographs of people on the streets of India. The result combines deconstructed sari darting with a modern sportswear aesthetic.

Scottish designer Pam Hogg’s style is famously rebellious. She has sent male models down her catwalks in platforms and latex jumpsuits in a joyous rebuttal of normative ideas of gender. London DJ Josh Quinton is known for his gender- defying sense of style, and a Pam Hogg look worn by him will be on display. Then there are three looks by Italian designer Antonio Urzi for FTL Moda’s AW15 show which cast models with disabilities, including wheelchair users.

Fashion is notoriously fickle and faddish, and some commentators have expressed concern that the industry’s increased focus on diversity might prove to be little more Clockwise from above left: Halima Aden showing Max Mara’s AW17 collection; Josh Quinton wearing a Pam Hogg design at London Fashion Week, 2017; Dries Van Noten’s 100th collection show, Paris 2017 than a trend which falls out of fashion just as suddenly as bootcut jeans or boho chic. However, Burkinshaw believes it’s here to stay and the future of diversity in fashion is bright.

“The trajectory is good and increasingly brands are realising this is a better business model,” he says. “The more we celebrate this aspect of fashion rather than deconstructing the well- reported problems, more designers will see the benefits and represent diversity in their brand visions. I would ultimately like to see the subject and even the word ‘ diversity’ so normalised that we don’t need to name it.”

Body Beautiful: Diversity on the Catwalk is at the National Museum of Scotland until 20 October. Visit www. nms. ac. uk/ bodybeautiful for details