On the Cornish Riviera
Pirates are absent from Penzance but there is much to see and do, writes Bernadette Fallon
With my early knowledge of Cornwall drawn from Famous Five books, I step out of the train at Penzance half- expecting smugglers, deep mists and, naturally, a few pirates. I get screaming seagulls, a blast of fresh sea air and a view of the harbour stretching out into Mounts Bay, where the English Channel meets the Atlantic. It’s been a long journey here but with part of the train track running along by the coast and its beautiful views, I’m ready to embrace the sea.
There were no pirates in Penzance when Gilbert & Sullivan produced their opera in 1879, a time when the town was a genteel tourist destination, “about as threatening as Bournemouth is today” say the tourist guides. Stylish Victorians hobnobbed on the popular promenade, the largest in Cornwall, before withdrawing to elegant homes on
nearby Regent Square. The Art Deco Jubilee Bathing Pool, built in 1935, became one of the most fashionable bathing spots in the country. Today it’s the UK’S largest sea water lido.
But back in Cornwall’s darker history, things weren’t so rosy. Barbary pirates from North Africa raided the coast in the 1600s and locals ended up in the slave markets of the Ottoman Empire. Unsuspecting ships were drawn on to the rocks by smugglers, working in underground tunnels from harbour to town. And the origins of that elegant sea water lido? Built over Cribben Zawn, a rocky cove where the smugglers did their worst.
Though it’s hard to think of smugglers when you’re holed up in one of Penzance’s most stylish residences, Chapel House. A listed Georgian building and former arts club, this newly revamped boutique B& B is keeping the art theme alive with original artworks from local artists around the house.
This revamp took a labour of love to transform it from an 18th century sea captain’s house. Not to mention a considerable amount of cash. Large freestanding baths sit proudly in several bedrooms, there are rainforest showers in the bathrooms, glass- fronted bookcases and a baby grand piano in the drawing room.
Accessed through the courtyard garden, with its own separate entrance, the suite we are staying in has a whole upper floor with sweeping views of the harbour and bay, its own terrace and downstairs a double bedroom and bathroom. You can plug in the kettle for an early morning cup of tea as you watch the sun rise over the harbour or store your bottle of wine in the fridge for an al fresco toast later as it sets.
Located on arty Chapel Street, full of quirky shops and a few cool cafes, we browse vintage furniture, clothes and retro treasures at Steckfensters and admire the colourful Egyptian House, built to house the collection of mineralogist John Lavin in 1835. Here you’ll also find the oldest pub in Penzance, the 13th- century Turk’s Head, with its low doorway and smugglers’ tunnels. But we drink in a more recent establishment, the 500- year- old Dolphin Inn overlooking the harbour, where we discover the excellent Cornish “cyder” Rattlers, with its sunglasses- wearing rattlesnake logo.
And we eat – fish, of course. From the casual and friendly Fraser’s on the seafront, where kids’ meals are served in a colourful beach bucket
No smugglers and no mist but glorious beaches and quirky towns
( with spade), to the also casual but equally excellent Tolcarne Inn at Newlyn Harbour, the food is first rate. It’s just a short walk along the prom to the Tolcarne, a small pub with a tiny dining area, the menu chalked up on a blackboard, everything so fresh it’s still almost swimming.
One thing that isn’t swimming is me – too scared of the water to venture into the sea, I can’t swim and anyway it’s freezing – but I do try out the hot tub the next day in the Carbis Bay Hotel in St Ives. Overlooking its own private golden sandy beach, the hot tub enjoys one of the best views in the country, as does the outdoor pool but clearly I’m not getting in that either.
Despite my watery reservations, I love walking on beaches and St Ives, just around the coast from Penzance, has several beauties. There’s the blue- flagged Porthmeor Beach for surfing or just for admiring from the roof terrace of Tate St Ives, directly opposite, where we take in a Cornish cream tea. There’s more art at the Barbara Hepworth Sculpture Garden, with its arresting outdoor installations, and more beach right across the front of the town, where restaurants, art galleries and shops look out on to the harbour, stretching down to Porthminster beach.
And there’s more cider, rhubarb this time, at the uber cool Pilchards Press Alehouse, the best bar in St Ives says Tripadvisor. Though we did feel a bit dubious turning off the seafront into a bin- lined walkway, leaving behind the obvious pleasures of the town’s other big pub attraction, the 14th century Sloop Inn with sweeping sea views. No views in Pilchards, no windows even, but the drinks and atmosphere make up for it, with a frequentlychanging menu of selected ales and ciders and a very friendly crowd – both dogs and people.
St Ives is renowned for its artists’ community and there are plenty of opportunities to take art home with you. One of my favourite local landscapes is the mystical view of St Michael’s Mount I see in many galleries, the tidal island visible from Penzance. And the Godolphin Arms in Marazion is the perfect place to appreciate that view. Located opposite the island, the hotel’s outdoor terraces lead down to the beach and the causeway that magically becomes visible every few hours when the tide is out. It’s a short walk across this path to the island, where just 30 people live, among them the St Aubyn family, who’ve made their home in the medieval monastery turned castle on the cliffs.
It’s been the family home since the 16th century when the monks moved out and is now run jointly by the St Aubyns and the National Trust, open to visitors from March to November. It’s an invigorating climb to the top of the mount and the views from the castle are spectacular. Room after room displays the family heirlooms and there’s a stunning Great Hall which the family still use for dining.
From the south terrace you also get a view of the castle gardens, open from April to November, and designed to be admired from above as well as at ground level. A windier spot for a garden you can’t imagine.
Garden fans should also head to Tremenheere Gardens, with its integrated sculpture trail, a mile from Penzance. This land was once owned by the St Michael’s Mount monks and later planted with an intriguing mix of tropical and local plants alongside woodland, streams and ponds, a wonderful place for a wander.
But it’s our last night in Cornwall and back at the Godolphin Arms we watch the sun set from our bedroom roof terrace, then eat dinner downstairs in the glass- walled dining room looking out to the Mount. It’s the perfect backdrop to enjoy – yes, more fish. Tasty scallops, calamari, fish and chips, crab mac and cheese, washed down with the craft ale we’ve also become converted to in Cornwall. The Godolphin is a nice mix of smartness and beachside casual, with stunning sea views.
No smugglers and no mist but glorious beaches, quirky towns, stylish accommodation, inspiring attractions and bracing sea breezes. Probably time the Famous Five did a revisit.
Flybe ( www. flybe. com) fly daily from Aberdeen, Glasgow and Edinburgh to Newquay or take a cross country train
from Glasgow to Plymouth; travelling via London, advance single fares from Paddington to Penzance are available
from £ 25 at www. gwr. com
B& B at Chapel House in Penzance
from £ 150, suites from £ 180, www. chapelhousepz. co. uk; B& B at the Godolphin Arms from £ 100, www. godolphinarms. co. uk