Luxury in the Lebanon
Civil war tore Beirut apart, but the city once known as the Paris of the Middle East is rebuilding its reputation for glamour, finds Bernadette Fallon
It might not seem like such an obvious place for a holiday. Certainly not for a glamorous getaway, with stunning scenery, beautiful buildings, gourmet food, great culture and a relaxed vibe. But Beirut has it all.
Growing up in the 1970s, Beirut was my byword for carnage, destruction and mayhem. Stories of sieges, bomb blasts, mass shootings – the city sat somewhere alongside Hell on a list of places I’d be likely to visit. But here I am, standing at the foot of a vast marble staircase in one of the city’s most luxurious hotels, just off a five hour flight from the UK. There’s a view of the Mediterranean and a yacht club, I’m surrounded by women in designer fashion and men puffing on enormous cigars. And I think, this is not the Beirut of my childhood.
Here at the Phoenicia Hotel, my fellow guests include a Nordic queen, a European president and José Mourinho. They’re probably in the deluxe tower with its private entrance – the hotel has 446 rooms and suites in total, including the stunning penthouse with double height ceilings and vast wrap-around balcony with sea views.
Back in the 1960s Beirut was known as the Paris of the Middle East and royalty, film stars and the wealthy flocked here. The glittering Phoenicia was where they congregated, the magnificent marble staircase leading to sumptuous lounges lit by chandeliers, outdoor terraces and the mosaiced pool. Music from the grand piano provided the backdrop to fashionable afternoon teas. I stood there and imagined it all.
Fast forward a decade and the Phoenicia was a wasteland of rubble, a ruined bombed-out husk. All of the former glitzy five-star hotels in the area, with their soaring towers and waterfront views, offered the perfect launch pad for militia rockets. The civil war lasted from 1975 to 1990 and 120,000 people were killed during the fighting, one million left, 76,000 still remain displaced.
And that’s why I hadn’t expected to find a city that was so beautiful, so calm and so welcoming on my visit. There are still streets of war-torn houses and bullet-marked walls but there are also streets of preserved 19th century buildings and attractive Art Deco architecture. Ancient and new rub shoulders – French colonial architecture and Brutalist blocks of concrete sit alongside shiny contemporary buildings with their penthouse apartments. One of these complexes has been built over Roman ruins, with a glass floor revealing the elaborate structure below, mosaics still intact.
We visited the apartment building on a four hour walking tour of the city, though you won’t find it on any official tourist trails. Beirut’s Alternative Tour takes you to the places many tourists don’t see, and guides are knowledgeable, informed and fun.
We went to streets that have been completely rebuilt since the war, using a modern take on classical design. Here we found the designer shops and posh restaurants, the stylish cafes and bars with their outdoor terraces. In the more rundown streets, we visited some of the businesses that survived the fighting, the oldest Armenian bakery in the city, the traditional spice shops and coffee houses.
We met some of the people who’ve returned from exile abroad to open new businesses – the former Aussie resident who’s opened Sip café, part of Hotel Lost next door. More new hotels are opening for visitors, with hostels springing up to cater for the backpacker market.
And we ate. The best of authentic Lebanese cooking from big buffets of starters, mains and desserts at Tawlet in Hamra, all served in an outdoor courtyard. Big dishes of hummus, tabbouleh and fattoush, baked carrots and aubergine, roasted beetroot, oven-baked chicken and potatoes, rice puddings, lemon custards and much more. It attracts a mix of locals and tourists, with lots of
We went to streets that have been completely rebuilt since the war
families enjoying the lunchtime sun.
We sampled upmarket Lebanese at Liza, a classically designed 19th century palace transformed into a stylish restaurant where fashionable city residents hang out. You’ll find its sister premises in Paris and reviews of the space in Architectural Digest.
Condé Nast Traveller called it one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world.
And, just in case we were missing home, we sampled upmarket European dishes at the Phoenicia’s sister hotel, Le Vendome, a short distance away, where Sydney’s rooftop restaurant – with dazzling waterfront views – is famous for its seafood.
It’s clear the city is getting back on its feet. But it’s not all bland capitalism. Stylish brands, such as Sarah’s Bag and Bokja show it’s possible to make profits with a conscience. Sarah Beydoun, a sociology graduate turned fashion designer, employs women in Lebanese prison and from underprivileged areas to work alongside designers making handbags. She runs a chic shop and workspace in Beirut and sells online all over the world to customers including Beyoncé and Amal Clooney. Bokja founders Huda Baroudi and Maria Hibri work with the immigrant and refugee community in Lebanon to make oneof-a-kind home designs, including armchairs, cushions, rugs and wallpaper.
Lebanon enjoys around 300 days of sun every year, with very high summer temperatures but even in autumn, temperatures regularly hit 30 degrees plus. However, in the mountains around Beirut it’s possible to go skiing from January to March.
It’s hot enough in October to lie on the beach on a day trip to the ancient city of Tyre, a two hour drive south from Beirut, close to the Israeli border. Tyre, one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, is worth the visit alone for the gorgeous scenery on the drive there – but also for its beautiful coastline and ancient ruins. You can even snorkel through Roman pillars close to the shore. Its ancient sites include the Roman Hippodrome, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Founded thousands of years before the coming of Christ, in its time it’s been inhabited by the Egyptians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and the French.
Today it’s another example of old and new sitting side by side – in culture and lifestyle as well as in geography. Sitting on the beach terrace at Dar Alma restaurant after lunch, I watched a group of Lebanese teenagers partying on the sand nearby. A few were swimming in the sea, where a girl in full hijab floated alongside her friend in a swimsuit.
It’s also an easy drive from Beirut into the mountains that surround it to see the vineyard of Ixsir in Batroun, one of the highest wineries in the world, established in 2008. You can take a tour of the winery, then eat lunch at the Nicolas Audi restaurant inside a 17th century traditional Lebanese house or on a sunny terrace looking over the mountain.
There’s a peaceful protest in the parliament square during our visit, the local population rearing up against crippling taxes introduced by the government. Not threatening at all, they remind me of the scenes back in the UK, the marches and demonstrations waged against Brexit.
Not everybody in Beirut can afford to eat in the posh restaurants or hang out in the trendy cafes. The protestors are ordinary people making their voices heard. And ironically, uniting people who for many years were divided. Separated in wartime into religious factions, the recent protests brought together Christians, Sunni and Shia Muslims, all calling for the corrupt political elite to stand down.
Unity and inclusive leadership are what the country needs. I hope it achieves its aims and continues to welcome travellers to experience its delightful charms. ■
Flights run daily from London to Beirut; rooms at the Phoenicia from $280 (approx. £218) for one night room only, plus 11 per cent VAT. For more visit www.phoeniciabeirut.com, email phoenicia@phoeniciabeirut.com, or call +961 1 369 100. Bernadette Fallon is a travel writer and journalist. You can read more about her travels on Travellingwell.net