Bucket list moment
From blissed out beach resorts to bucket-list wildlife, Jenny Mcbain enjoys endless pinch-me moments in hospitable Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka, plus France’s second city, Marseille
There was an elephant in the room in our Sri Lankan hotel. When the mood took her, a wild young female sauntered into the lobby, then out she went to take a peaceful nap under a cyathea tree. This regular little happening occurred on a daily basis. Yet to locals such things are commonplace because the entire teardrop-shaped island is filled with natural wonders and also with very special people.
I travelled to Sri Lanka as a guest of a company called Jetwing which has around 60 properties in its Sri Lankan portfolio. We toured the country checking out some of their most exclusive properties and, at the same time, acquiring memories with a distinctive, cinematic quality.
Jetwing founder Herbert Cooray was born in 1929. A Catholic and one time communist, he always maintained, “You cannot teach a person to smile. You can’t teach someone to want to serve others well, you can’t teach personality, you can’t teach a person to be passionate about what they are doing. But you can find people with those qualities and teach them what to do.”
And Cooray was definitely on to something. Basking in the warmth of heartfelt smiles from dawn until tropical dusk – and beyond was as restorative as the gentle sunshine and the warm, lolling action of the salty surf of the Indian Ocean. As for a luxury experience? It can only be defined as such if guests feel they are in receipt of tailor-made service. There is quite possibly nothing more luxurious than being assigned a personal butler.
At Jetwing Surf, I was looked after by 25-year-old Vippi who left home aged 10, in order to attend school before going on to graduate from the company’s youth development programme. Instinctually attuned to guests’ needs, he can also converse in several different languages and is something of an expert when it comes to juggling with wine bottles. In fact, he possesses a clarity of purpose and a sense of gravitas that could well see him rise to prominence in years to come. Throughout our trip we experienced excellent service and it was service without servility.
Wild animals were very much a feature of our trip. During our sojourn at Jetwing Surf, we went on a tuk tuk safari with a man called Lafika, who may just be the Dr Dolittle of Sri Lanka. We edged along the perimeter of a paddy field until we came upon a river. Resting on the other side of the bank was a baby crocodile, completely still and with its mouth open. (Apparently crocodiles do this in order to absorb sunlight). So-called dangerous wildlife is alert to the danger posed by people and will keep its distance, especially when well fed. Besides which, there was plenty for all to eat. Even the crocodiles were much too relaxed and replete to bother targeting unwitting tourists.
When Lafika pointed out a herd of water buffalo being driven homeward, it was a very special moment indeed. The lumbering elegance of these creatures was quite something to behold as they created a slow-moving tableau. It made for a sight I shall never forget. We did not get to see leopards on this occasion but the possibility that we might, made for a tantalising sense of anticipation.
At Jetwing Lighthouse, which
The lumbering elegance of the water buffalo was quite something to behold
is situated on the southwest of Sri Lanka it is possible to see turtles on the beach, if you are patient and if you are deemed by resident naturalist, Anoman, to be someone who cares about the environment and the animals who share it with us, then he will lead you to them. However, just to be on the safe side, he makes a point of hiding the turtle eggs in order that they cannot be stolen and then hatched for a life in illegal captivity. We sat together patiently on the beach and saw hermit crabs scuttling sideway and then, three wee turtles riding the waves.
A female turtle lays about 90 to 100 eggs at a time and only around one per cent of these will make it past the perilous point of early life. Anoman quite possibly has one of the best jobs in the world. His office, for the most part, is the rocky and watery surrounds of the Jetwing Lighthouse hotel. If I get the chance to return, I will seize the opportunity to go out on a boat with him to look for whales and dolphins.
Architecture is a key touchstone of what we were shown. At Jetwing Kaduruketha we were each assigned a beautiful split-level dwelling within the nature reserve which was once a desolate parcel of land. Each morning the manager offers meditative walks. We followed him along sunny byways and were treated to the sight of tree squirrels and a monitor lizard. Family groups can go on a night safari to look for wild cats such as the jungle cat and can make a personal video of their experience to take home. The rich diversity of flora and fauna to be found at Vilyana is nothing less than a triumph of what we in Scotland would recognise as rewilding.
As might be expected at this luxurious end of the market, our food was spectacular throughout the trip. Grilled seafood flavoured with subtle traces of sauce and peppery vegetable curries, which could always be tamed for the western palate, were particular highlights. So too were the platters of fresh tropical fruits with which I chose to start and finish most days.
The spa treatments we were treated to, had an extra special dimension too. This is partly due to the ayurvedic principles which are deeply embedded in Sri Lankan culture. Such practitioners have an almost uncanny knack of getting to the source of imbalance and correcting it through the use of unctuous oils applied with a sure touch in idyllic surrounds complete with lily ponds and filled with sure, steady, tropical sunlight.
Sri Lanka is an upcoming destination for the discerning traveller for whom luxury alone is not enough. A landscape pulsating with plant, animal and birdlife is there to be enjoyed. Of course, right now, visitor numbers have plummeted, as people are besieged by fear for the worst in terms of random violence. Personally, I felt safe at all times.
Getting to the island can be a pleasurable experience too. We travelled with Sri Lankan Airlines and were upgraded to business class on the return leg. Whilst unable to claim to be an expert on such matters, it would be my preferred mode of travel should economics allow.
One way or another I intend to return to this beautiful country in the not too distant future, in the company of my son, daughter-in-law and grandson. It is one thing to see apex predators on the television but to see monkeys and monitor lizards in real life beats anything a TV programme can serve up to a young mind.
It is impossible to create a better world without imagining what that world may look like.
Sri Lanka is beyond anything I could have imagined and now I am persuaded to support rewilding attempts in Scotland. For the most part, though, I daydream of an island which, to me, represents paradise on earth.
Audley Travel offers tailor-made trips to Sri Lanka. A 10 night trip costs from £3,115 per person (based on two sharing) and includes one night at Jetwing Beach, two nights at Vil Uyana, two nights at Jetwing Surf, two nights at Jetwing Kaduruketha and two nights at Jetwing Lighthouse, all on a B&B basis. The price also includes return (economy) flights, transfers and excursions with
private chauffeur guide. For more information visit www.audleytravel. com/sri-lanka or tel: 01993 838335.