Harbour in Marseille

France’s second city is a beautiful, bustling gateway to Provence, writes Alison Gray

The oldest city in France has some new attractions. Yet Marseille’s history cannot be separated from its relationship with the sea. The fabulous Mucem tells the story of the Mediterranean and its people. Les Docks Village sees former warehouses transformed into boutiques, galleries and cafes. But perhaps Norman Foster’s Ombrière says it best. His giant mirrored canopy, installed to commemorate the city’s 12 months as European Capital of Culture in 2013, reflects the water, the people, and the streets of the Old Port and is just perfect for the selfie generation. Here are five mustdos for a weekend break.

Eat some bouillabaisse

The classic fish stew originates in Marseille, with the word packing in as many rolling vowels as the dish does fish.

It comes from the Provençal Occitan bolhabaissa, a compound that consists of the two verbs bolhir (to boil) and abaissar (to reduce heat, ie, simmer). Originally a stew made by Marseille fishermen using the bony rockfish which they were unable to sell to restaurants or markets, there are, of course, quite strict rules about what goes into the pot. There are at least three kinds of fish in a traditional bouillabaisse: typically red rascasse (Scorpaena scrofa); sea robin; and European conger. It can also include white fish like turbot, monkfish, mullet, or European hake and usually also includes shellfish. The vegetable and tomato-based broth is traditionally served with a rouille, a mayonnaise made of olive oil, garlic, and saffron which is highly addictive. Rub a raw garlic clove onto a little bit of toasted bread, load it with rouille and float it on your sea of bouillabaisse. There are plenty of restaurants that will give you the full theatrical experience, for example Miramar overlooking the port where fish is still landed. Top tip, this is a monster French eating experience. Definitely don’t have a starter and

probably skip lunch too.

Stay at Hôtel Maison Montgrand Vieux Port

To be fair we didn’t really see this hotel at its best as in common with much of the rest of central Marseille, the street it is located on is being reconstructed so both sides of the road where it has its quirky addresses were clad in scaffolding. Once inside however, the charm of the place, which describes itself as a three star boutique hotel is

evident. Bedrooms on one side of the road were simple but immaculate in white, including the ensuite shower. Across the street in the main building staff are helpful and friendly and we enjoyed the alfresco approach to the buffet breakfast – help yourself to museli, fruit and pastries and take a seat in the back garden, which is surprisingly calm, screened with bamboo from the bustling neigbourhood streets which include a school. Petanque optional. Standard doubles from around £90

per night, tel: +33 (0)4 91 00 35 20, www.hotel@maison-montgrand.com

Sign up for a city pass

There’s so much to do in the heart of the old port city of Marseille that it makes sense to sign up for a Marseille Pass, valid for either 24 hours (€27), 48 hours (€37) or 72 hours (€43) depending how much time you have to whizz around the attractions. Use it for free access to multiple museums, unlimited travel on the metro, bus and tramway or like us, hop on a boat and head for the Frioul Islands, and a closer look at Chateau d’if.

Follow in the footsteps of The Count of Monte Cristo

Alexandre Dumas’ famous 1844 adventure novel sees his hero Edmond Dantès escape from Chateau d’if, a prison on the island of If, the smallest in the Frioul archipelago, about 20 minutes by boat from the

Yachts in Marseille port, main; the fish market by the Ombrière, above; a bowl of bouillabaisse, inset left

Old Port of Marseille. In reality no one ever escaped from the heavily fortified island which was used as a prison until the end of the 19th century. You can also visit the Frioul Islands, home to around 100 species of sea birds and more than 300 rare and protected plant species. There are a few restaurants where you can have lunch. Highly recommended as an afternoon excursion to get a break from the hustle and bustle of Marseille.

Marseille is the ideal starting point for a tour of Provence

Enjoy a couple of days exploring the eclectic second city of France which locals say is made up of 111 villages. By the time you have had your senses stimulated by half a dozen, you’ll be ready to experience some of Provence’s other charms, namely a leisurely menu du jour in an outdoor cafe shaded by trees, accompanied by a glass of ice cold local rosé. Channel your Peter Mayle daydreams in Ménerbes, the Luberon village that inspired A Year in Provence . We spent time in nearby Lourmarin, often voted one of France’s prettiest villages. You’ll need a car for these adventures. We used Holiday Autos (www.holidayautos.com). ■