Just desert
A luxury camping adventure to Oman’s Empty Quarter reveals a tapestry of magical desert landscapes, writes Neil Geraghty
Luxury camping in Oman’s Empty Quarter
From ancient Egyptian embalming rituals to the Three Wise Men following the Star of Bethlehem, frankincense conjures up all the mystery of the ancient world, but surprisingly it also makes a very tasty chewing gum. I’m visiting the frankincense bazaar in Salalah in southern Oman where mounds of crystalized frankincense resin in straw baskets are glowing like gemstones in the winter sunshine. The resin is collected from trees that grow in the Rocky Desert of Salalah’s hinterland and comes in four grades of quality. The highest, hojari is a pale translucent green and is used to flavour food or as a breath freshener. A stall holder offers me a piece and with some hesitation I pop it into my mouth. Far from the overpowering spiciness of frankincense used in churches, hojari has a fresh menthol flavour with hints of nutmeg. It also has a pleasant light texture and long lasting flavour and I’m surprised that it hasn’t caught on globally as a totally natural, additive-free substitute for chewing gum.
Salalah is located in Oman’s southern Dhofar province which from June to September is buffeted by the khareef, a monsoon that deposits large amounts of rainfall along the coast. Dhofar lies south of the Tropic of Cancer and the khareef allows lush tropical vegetation to flourish along the coastal strip where banana groves fringe wide beaches of ivory sand. On the outskirts of Salalah, I check into the Anantara Al Baleed resort which, sandwiched between a fresh water lagoon and a dazzling white beach, makes the most of its beautiful Arabian Sea location. I arrive just in time for lunch and from my garden villa, I jump onto a bicycle and cycle through gardens filled with coconut palms to the resort’s Al Mina restaurant which sits beside an infinity pool overlooking the beach. It’s early February, the middle of the dry season when temperatures hover in the mid 20s and the southfacing beaches bask from dawn to sunset in sublime sunshine. After a long grey winter, the sun is a real tonic for the soul and I take a seat on the restaurant terrace to soak up the precious ultra violet rays.
Unlike most of the arid Arabian peninsula, Dhofar has plenty of fertile farmland and each morning the restaurant sources many of its fresh ingredients from a market garden set in the grounds of the nearby royal palace. I order a platter of Lebanese-style meze and from the rich smokiness of seared aubergine in the baba ganoush to the bursting freshness of parsley and tomatoes in the tabbouleh, the intense flavours of these local sun-kissed herbs and vegetables really shine through. After lunch I cycle over to the spa where I have my first encounter with the many therapeutic properties of frankincense. I’m feeling tired and stiff after an overnight flight and a deep tissue massage with frankincense oil is the perfect antidote. The oil is both calming and energising and my talented Thai therapist Pornthip quickly identifies the tense areas of my back and loosens them up with the tingling oil. The massage finishes with a gentle rub around the temples and a wave of energy spreads through me as I inhale the frankincense, so much so that I have the oomph to cycle straight down to the beach for a bracing swim
I cycle down to the beach for a swim in the crashing Arabian Sea breakers
providing a zesty accompaniment.
Algarve wines are rare outside the area – producers are too small to export much – so it was a real pleasure to sample Portal da Vinha, a lively white from the Alentejo region.
Or, if you fancy reclining in the sunshine, you could do worse than Cidade Velha (restaurantecidadevelhafaro. negocio.site; mains from €11/£9.56) in the old town. Try fresh tuna belly marinated in garlic, pot-boiled clams pared with xarem (similar to a wet preparation of couscous, made of cornflour, garlic, herbs and water), it’s a great place to dine and take in the surroundings: massive stork nests sit atop historic buildings and orange trees line the roads, heavenly fragrant from late February until mid-march.
Market marvels
From crusty Pao de Cabeca loaves to creamy ricotta-style goat’s cheese, Faro’s local market is a foodie’s delight.
Join retired gents bantering about football at Snack Bar da Xica for a breakfast of bifana sandwich (€2.25/£1.95). The pork, marinated in garlic and wine, will line your
Clockwise from main: lunch by the sea: migas with cod and shrimp at A Tia Bia; Four Seasons Fairways; salmon appetisers at Amara
stomach – particularly useful given that you won’t be judged here for starting your day with a glass of red.
Where to stay
Four Seasons Fairways, with its self-catering accommodation, is particularly handy for the gastronomic tourist: it’s close to restaurants and local markets, but comes with a fully equipped kitchen for you to release that inner chef. You can even request barbecue meats or order groceries from the supermarket to your door – ready for your arrival.
The resort’s fine dining restaurant, Amara (amararestaurant.pt/; four-course chef ’s tasting menu €39/£33.89), is a must-visit, whether you stay here or not. Prices are reasonable and dishes exquisite.
The wine workshops are also not to be missed. Hosted by sommelier Miguel Reis, whose grandfather owned a vineyard, it’s the perfect way to discover Algarve wines. Workshops cost €25/£21.85 per person. ■
Highlights include deer and plum stew or ovenbaked black pork cheek
Due to COVID-19, check for trading updates; Four Seasons Fairways (fourseasonsfairways.com) starts
from €1,200/£1,045 for a two-bedroom villa (sleeps six); visitalgarve.com