Light and fresh reds for warm summer evenings
Ideal reds for serving on warm spring and summer evenings are those made from thinner-skinned, less tannic varieties with a refreshing twist of acidity. France’s gamay or pinot noir, Spain’s mencia, Austria’s zweigelt, Italy’s frappato or lagrein fit the bill with their vibrant high acid, crunchy fruits and approachable silky textures. Many of these lighter reds benefit from a short chill in the fridge before serving to make them even more refreshing.
Burgenland, Austria: Velvet Trocken NV Pittnauer
A very clever blend from one of my favourite Neusiedlersee producers, Gerhard Pittnauer. Unusually it is non-vintage, as Pittnauer has blended three different grapes and vintages. The result is deliciously accessible and authentic with dark cherry and cassis, sappy mouthfeel, slightly spicy, with soft, supple velvet-smooth tannins (hence the name). £14.15, L’art du Vin, www.aduv.co.uk
Loire, France: Chinon L’arpenty 2018 Francis & Francoise Desbourdes
Cabernet franc is a perfect grape for drinking on warmer days, particularly unoaked lighter styles like this one. Just pure crunchy, juicy, red berry fruits with velvet smooth palate and a refreshing bite of acidity to be enjoyed in its youth. Locally in the beautiful town of Chinon south of the river Loire, it is served with platters of goats cheese. £14.75, Yapp Bros, www.yapp.co.uk
Madiran, SW France: Les Deux Vaches Rouges 2016 Château d’aydie
Tannat is not a thin-skinned grape, but this example is an exception as it is made in a very modern approachable style. Loved its juicy, soft blackberry and cherry flavours, hints of leather, smooth, succulent mouthfeel – very different to traditional styles of Madiran which are usually tough and tannic. This medium-bodied red would work well with sausage casserole or duck breasts.
£12.45, L’art du Vin, www.aduv.co.uk
Pfalz, Germany: Spatburgunder 2017 Hanewaldschwerdt STAR BUY
As a pinot noir fan, I was delighted to find this new listing at Woodwinters. Spatburgunder is the German name for this grape. Leistadt in Pfalz region has sheltered limestone vineyards in the shade of the Haardt mountains. Pinot noir works well on limestone, so no surprise that they have produced such an attractive, savoury, minerally red. Pale in colour, with cherry notes and silky soft palate.
£13.50, Woodwinters, www.woodwinters.com
Menfi, Sicily: Costadune Frappato 2018 Mandrarossa
It might seem surprising that Sicily can make delicate, fresh reds. The best of this light style are from the low tannin frappato grape, one of my recent discoveries on the island. It has such a fabulous freshness with vibrant acidity – a light, feminine style of wine – with succulent strawberry flavours, floral and very fruity – living up to its name which means ‘fruitful’ as it really smells and tastes of grapes. Mandrarossa’s soft, succulent example would suit those who normally drink pinot noir. £9.99-£10.99, Valvona & Crolla, www.valvonacrolla. co.uk; Luvians, www.luvians. com; Henderson Wines, www. hendersonwines.co.uk; Fine Wine Co Musselburgh, www. thefinewinecompany.co.uk
Bierzo, Spain: Laderas de Leonila Mencia 2017 Maquina & Tabla
From an interesting new small family winery where winemaker Oriol uses organic and biodynamic methods (and low sulphur) to create authentic examples of native Spanish grapes. The name Laderas refers to the slopes and Leonila, the grandmother who owns the vineyard. A very good example of the medium-bodied mencia grape (which is the same as jaen in Portugal’s Dao region) with scented liquorice, brioche nose, savoury edge – a perfect springtime red with its fresh acidity and juicy fruits. £16.95, Lea & Sandeman, www.leasandeman.co.uk
Beaujolais, France: Fleurie La Bonne Dame 2017 Louis Tete STAR BUY
Fleurie is one of the lightest of Beaujolais’ Crus and is currently very undervalued, compared to red Burgundy’s escalating prices. It makes a perfect springtime red with its red fruits and silky palate, best served slightly chilled. Violet and cherry aromas, zippy, racy acidity freshens the mouth with crunchy juicy fruits. Very approachable with soft textures and dark chocolatenotes. Servewith charcuterie, coarse pate, salad or mushroom quiche.
£15.35, Great Western Wine; £16.35, Exel Wines, www. exelwines.co.uk; Fine Wine Co, www.thefinewinecompany. co.uk
Langhorne Creek, S Australia: If Life Gives You Lagrein 2017 Vinterloper
I love the rich cherried fruits, plummy notes and sour twist of lagrein. I am discovering a different face to this northern Italian grape as 40 producers Down Under are now experimenting with it in Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania. I loved this wine’s brightness, juiciness and dark red cherry and plum flavours with light, spicy notes and vibrant acidity. Serve with charcuterie or spicy barbecue sausage. ■
£13.99, Luvians, St Andrews & Cupar
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