Alsace's growers and makers need our support

This week’s column is dedicated to one of France’s most beautiful wine regions, which sadly has been the worst affected in the country by the Covid-19 pandemic.

It is extraordinary that the tiny region of Alsace

( just 15,000 hectares of vineyards) on France’s eastern border sandwiched between the Rhine and the Vosges mountains, which has had such a long history of hardships and upheavals, has yet again been struck by disaster.

The reason why Alsace was so badly affected was due to a large authorised four day-long religious meeting in Mulhouse, south of the region, which began on 18 February with more than 2,500 people in attendance. Some had travelled thousands of miles to take part, although coronavirus had already arrived in France on 23 January. This prayer meeting acted like a virus vector spreading through this small region affecting some local winery families – forcing Germany to partially close its border on the Rhine with Alsace.

Looking back in history, Alsace is no stranger to difficult times.

Between 1870 and 1945 Alsace changed hands four times between Germany and France. In 1941 all books, symbols and the French language were suppressed in the region and one third of Alsace was forced to join the Nazi party with swastikas flying in the streets of their medieval villages and their young men sent to fight against the Allies in Normandy or the Russian front. In January 1945 Alsace’s vineyards on the slopes of the Vosges became the epicentre of Hitler’s last offensive.

Here we are again in 2020 – with Alsace at the front line of another crisis in Europe. Yet the people of Alsace seem to have an amazing resilience. Many of their wineries are small familyowned businesses with some of France’s oldest wineries:

Trimbach was founded in 1626 and Hugel in 1639 and both still thrive today owned by the same families.

“We are used to facing challenges,” says Severine Schlumberger of 200-yearold Domaine Schlumberger, Alsace’s largest independent vineyard owners with 130 hectares based in Guebwiller, just 20 minutes north of Mulhouse. “Over the last 75 years we have made amazing friendships all over the world with our wines. We are positive and confident we can get through this – and in Alsace we know what patience is about,” she says.

Amazingly 1945 post-war was one of the best vintages in the 20th century for Alsace and in 2008, during the economic crisis, it was one of Alsace’s top vintages – so winemakers are hoping 2020 will be the same.

Here is a reminder of why Alsace is one the wine world’s treasures and why we should try to support its winemakers in this difficult time.

Sparkling Crémant d’alsace NV Bruno Sorg

Stylish, floral, richly appley and creamy pinot blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris traditional-method based fizz. Alsace sparkling crémants make up more than 50 per cent of all French crémant production and are hugely popular in France, but barely known in the UK.

£18, Woodwinters

White

Riesling 2017 Trimbach

For those who like steely dry riesling, Pierre Trimbach’s example is a serious classic with its lime and grapefruit aromas, racy acidity, very dry, quite tense and minerally with citrus fruit palate.

£15.99, Luvians; Virgin Wines; Great Western Wine; Exel Wines

Riesling Grand Cru Saering 2017 Domaine Schlumberger

Another superb example of bone-dry Alsace riesling with pretty floral nose, savoury herby palate and bright citric fruit with intense minerally palate and saline notes.

£25, Noble Green Wines; Oxford Wine

Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2016 Domaine Kirrenbourg

Floral, apricot, gingery aromas, tangy refreshing palate with a hint of sweetness from very ripe fruits, long lingering length – fabulous rich just off-dry example from top Schlossberg vineyard by winemaker Samuel Tottoli. £34.50, Raeburn Fine Wines

Gewürztraminer 2017 Bruno Sorg

Surprisingly rich, powerful and so delicious for the price – an off-dry, typically gewürz rose-petal nose, zesty acidity and lightly spicy.

£16.50, Tanners; £19, St Andrews Wine Co; Fortnum & Mason

Classic Gewürztraminer 2016 Hugel

Gewürztraminer is one of Hugel’s finest wines. Mango and apricot notes, gingery undertones, scented palate – such an elegant classic example of Alsace gewürz. £17.99, Luvians; Great Western Wine

Gewürztraminer Les Princes Abbés 2016 Domaine Schlumberger

One of the best priced gewürztraminers – it is enhanced by Grand Cru fruit with attractive rose-petal and musk aromas, gentle spicy, slightly off-dry, rich mellow creamy textured palate. ■ £14.99/£16.99, Majestic Wine; £17, The Wine Society (for 2017 vintage)