It’s time to experiment with interesting white varieties
From high Alpine vineyards to warm humid Greek islands – I have been scouring the world for lesserknown white grapes offering you a thrilling new taste to explore for summer drinking:
Altesse
One of the most exciting French Alpine grapes, altesse is often referred to as roussette, its historical name. This highly- prized grape is grown across Bugey, Savoie and Isere. The best examples I have enjoyed in southern Bugey are from the Montagnieu cru on the steep banks of the Rhône.
Altesse de Montagnieu En Chinvre 2017 Yves Duport
Duport’s single vineyard Roussette du Bugey is a rich, full- flavoured white.
£ 15.50, L’art du Vin
Gringet
A rare Alpine grape at risk of extinction – and in need of your support. Grown on high altitude glacial sediments in the foothills of Mont Blanc, its key admirer is Dominique Belluard in high Ayze village between Geneva and Chamonix in Haut- Savoie.
Les Alpes Belluard 2018
A dry, intensely- flavoured minerally white with bright crystalline fruits.
£ 33, Buon Vino; Les Caves
Jacquere
My go- to summer hammock wine is made from this grape.
Jacquere 2018 Famille Tiollier
From vines grown on limestone soils in Cruet in Savoie. It is light, blossomy, refreshingly clean and dry – it tastes like a mountain muscadet.
£ 12.25, Yapp Bros
Moschofilero
One of my favourite Greek grapes – making wonderfully spicy aromatic whites which smell a bit like viognier with a tighter, sleeker, palate. The Society’s Greek White This great value 2019 Semeli has apricot and blossom aromas with a grapefruit and honeyed palate.
£ 8.95, The Wine Society
Muller Thurgau
Often derided, but when made from 60- year- old vines planted on steep volcanic soils, cropped to very low yields and crafted by one of Germany’s most exciting young makers, muller thurgau can be superb.
Frohlich Trocken 2018 Weingut Schafer- Frohlich
Winemaker Tim Frohlich likes to harvest late with grapes picked in the cool of the night. Fabulous acidity and freshness.
£ 14, L’art du Vin
Petit manseng
One of France’s best- kept secrets. I was delighted to see Waitrose has introduced an own- label version.
Petit Manseng 2018
Grown on Jurancon’s poudingue stone- rich soils this has floral notes, grapefruit and baked lemon notes with a dry, zippy, fresh, lively palate.
£ 9.99, Waitrose,
Roter veltliner
No relation of gruner veltliner, roter veltliner tends to be more complex with richer extract – but it is tricky to grow being sensitive to disease and frost.
Ried Eisenhut Roter Veltliner 2018 Eschenhof Holzer
Exotic floral with honeyed textural palate and spicy undertones.
£ 13.99, Luvians
Sylvaner
Poor sylvaner is often sidelined in Alsace. What is needed for it to shine is a good site, very low yields and picking at maximum ripeness.
Sylvaner Vielles Vignes 2018 Domaine Andre Ostertag
A charming old vine example with limey palate, peppery notes and long finish from talented biodynamic winemaker Andre Ostertag and his son Arthur.
£ 19.95, Berry Bros & Rudd
Timorasso
This grape from Piedmont’s Colli Tortonesi is so underrated. It produces distinctive, rich, powerful whites, but after phylloxera it was largely replaced by the easier- to- grow cortese grape.
Timorasso Derthona 2015 La Colombera
A rich, creamy, textured white with honey and acacia notes. £ 22.50, Raeburn Wines
Vidiano
This Cretan grape was almost extinct at the end of the 20th century, but is now being revived by a new generation of producers. It makes such fresh vibrant aromatic whites considering the island’s warm humid climate. Often rich and dense, but never overripe or too alcoholic – at its best planted in cooler, higher altitude plots.
Vidiano 2018 Diamantakis
A tank- fermented vidiano with crunchy, citric mango fruits, nutty undertones, glycerol texture and sweet- sour finish with vibrant acid.
£ 14, Woodwinters
Xarello
Best known as an important ingredient in cava adding structure and ageing potential to the blends. A local clone of xarello, called pansa blanca, grown in Alella near Barcelona makes very interesting herby whites.
Pansa Blanc 2018 Alta Alella
Rich, herbaceous, fennel character with apple and pear fruits, nutty with salinity and minerally finish. ■
£ 12.15, L’art du Vin