The Scotsman

Restaurant

Rosalind Erskine tries the Pig Out at home roast from Glasgow bistro Le Petit Cochon

- Rosalind Erskine @ Rosalinder­skine

Where?

9 Radnor Street, Glasgow G3 7UA. For menus and how to order, see lepetitcoc­hon. co. uk

Iam quite a late comer to Sunday roast. While Sunday dinners growing up were always a sit down family affair ( and always with a starter of garlic bread), a full on roast with all the trimmings was only undertaken on Christmas Day.

It took restaurant­s and flatmates in both London and Dubai for me to fully appreciate the feast of a dinner to start the week, and only partially as it demands a bottle of red to be opened and enjoyed alongside.

I can’t seem to summon up the skills or knowledge to create anything similar myself, which is why the growing number of ‘ cook at home’ Sunday roast delivery or collection services have been one of the joys of lockdown and beyond. If you are looking for convenienc­e and to support a local business, Le Petit Cochon should be on your list for a stress- free, restaurant- quality weekend treat.

The bijou, fairy light clad restaurant located on Radnor Street, a stone’s throw from Kelvingrov­e Art Gallery, was back open for brunch, lunch and dinner ( minus the booze) and is still offering their Pig Out at home kits, including a Sunday roast option (£ 50 for two). Orders for the Sunday roast or regular Pig Out menu are taken over email and available for collection on the day of cooking. And cooking here means heating up someone else’s hard work. Starters were easy as one, two, ping, as both were microwavea­ble in seconds and served with warmed- through sourdough and bacon butter, which beats a garlic baguette hands down – I’ve squirrelle­d away what’s left to be eaten with, well everything, for the rest of the week. A suitably autumnal shaded, delicate crab bisque was perfectly seasoned as not to take away from the shellfish and completed with a large Parmesan crouton, which gave the right amount of salty tang against the rich bisque.

I’ve only ever successful­ly made soufflé once thanks to a cooking class at Ballintagg­art, and while it was relatively easy, I’ve not attempted it since and I am not sure I could ever make one as good as the second starter, a Pumpkin and Epoisse twice baked soufflé to be served with chicory marmalade. The spongy yet light- as- air subtly cheesy soufflé was complement­ed by a silky, frothy pumpkin velouté and the tartness of the chicory marmalade cut through it all for a well- balanced dish.

On to the mains, and all the trimmings, which required minutes in a hot oven. Thinly sliced, pink pieces of roast sirloin cut like butter and were jazzed up with a red wine jus. The second main was an aromatic roll of porchetta roast pork, served with a heady cider and sage sauce. The herbs in this dish were a little too overpoweri­ng for me, but it was certainly not lacking in flavour.

The meat is obviously the main attraction, but the side dishes didn’t disappoint here. Crispy and golden on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside, roast potatoes paired with parsnips and carrots with just the right amount of bite. The star of the sides was the cauliflowe­r cheese with crumbled topping though, with the sharpness balancing beautifull­y against the beef, pork and rich sauces.

After a short break, the microwave once again pinged for dessert – a spiced plum and frangipane tarte to be served with lemon chantilly. Soft plum halves, their juices mellowed by festive spice, sat plump within the sweet, golden crust. A winning combinatio­n made even better thanks to the lemon cream, which added some lifting zest.

When I’m out for dinner, I always struggle to resist the cheese course if it’s an option and the temptation of the camembert (£ 9) was too much for me here too. It was the right choice, with the different flavours and textures sending my tastebuds into overdrive. Soft, molten cheese studded with rosemary was sweetened by a truffle honey drizzle and served with salted crostini to dip into this gooey, oozy concoction.

I hope the Le Petit Cochon Pig Out Sunday roast stays part of the restaurant’s offering even after lockdown for the sake of my culinary skills and the friends that can come round soon for a relaxed meal, none of which requires hours slaving over a hot stove.

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 ??  ?? Mains of roast beef and pork with all the trimmings, above, were followed by spiced plum tarte and then camembert
Mains of roast beef and pork with all the trimmings, above, were followed by spiced plum tarte and then camembert

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