The Scotsman

Great whites from Down Under to suit all budgets

- Rose Murraybrow­n @ rosemurray­brown

This is a year Australian winemakers will not forget, having endured the challenges of drought, fires, smoke damage, floods and now disease. It is time to spare a thought for those who lost vines or homes in this turbulent year. Luckily for those vines which have survived, the 2020 vintage has proved remarkably good in many regions. Raise a glass to vintners Down Under and enjoy this selection of Australia’s diverse white wines designed to suit all budgets.

Riverland, S Australia: Yalumba Organic Viognier 2019

Attractive, savoury, herby style of viognier from an organic grower in the warm Murray River area of Riverland. A touch pricier than Yalumba’s Y series viognier, but I loved the saline undertones, juicy earthiness and leesy richness.

£ 9.99, Tesco; Waitrose; Aitken Wines

Clare Valley, S Australia: Jim Barry Lodge Hill Riesling 2019

From one of Clare Valley’s highest vineyards at 480m, this is a cracking price. Lime and wild flower aromas, fresh zingy acidity with a saline edge and hint of spice.

£ 10.99, Majestic Wine; £ 11, Co- op

Riverina, New South Wales: De Bortoli 17 Trees Pinot Grigio 2020

De Bortoli used to plant 17 trees for each company vehicle to offset carbon emissions, now they also plant a tree for every six bottles of this range sold. Peach and jasmine, zippy fresh version of pinot grigio with a splash of riesling to lift the fruit.

£ 6.99, introducto­ry offer, £ 9.99, Waitrose

Mclaren Vale, S Australia: Our Fathers ‘ Just Like Heaven’ Roussanne/ Grenache Blanc 2020 STAR BUY

A fabulous new Rhône- style blend crafted by winemaker Giles Cooke

MW, who named it after his wife’s favourite song. Cooke gives all profits from the sale of this wine to charity. Bright gold, rich honeyed nose with pearskin and bruised apple notes, very rich fleshy textural palate, but still refreshing with elegant acidity and dry finish.

£ 16, www. ourfathers­wines. co. uk

Adelaide Hills, S Australia: Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2020

Over 30 years ago Shaw & Smith surprised the world with their sleek sauvignons from Adelaide Hills, one of Australia’s coolest regions. This unoaked sauvignon has lovely limey fruit, soft leesy finish and moderate alcohol for Down Under.

£ 15-£ 16.99, Majestic Wine; Henderson Wines; Luvians; Slurp

Mclaren Vale, S Australia: Brash Higgins ‘ CHN’ Chenin Blanc 2018

A wine to suit vouvray enthusiast­s. This chenin blanc is grown in the highly prized Blewitt Springs area of Mclaren Vale near Adelaide. Winemaker Brash Higgins’ fourth vintage is one of his best yet with honeyed, nutty richness, a touch of salinity and lemony notes.

£ 19.99 reduced from £ 23.99, All About Wine; £ 20, Vinvm; £ 23, Strictly Wine

Margaret River, W Australia: Flametrees SRS Wallcliffe Chardonnay 2018

This vibrant, flinty chardonnay stood out in a line- up of Margaret River chardonnay­s. Loved its struck match nose, savoury minerally style, citric fruit and light oak.

£ 29, Woodwinter­s; Noel Young Wines

Clare Valley, S Australia: Grosset Springvale Clare Riesling 2018

Brilliant Jeffrey Grosset produces Australia’s most intense powerful rieslings from his Clare Valley base. Grosset’s rieslings need time, but this is approachab­le now. Fine lime and herb aromas, minerally with characteri­stic tautness, poised lemon flavours, zippy zesty, long dry finish. £ 24, The Wine Society; £ 23/£ 26, Laithwaite­s

Margaret River, W Australia: Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2018 STAR BUY

Winemaker Virginia Wilcox of Vasse Felix, Margaret River’s oldest winery, is trying to ‘ restrain with power’. Her flagship Heytesbury chardonnay is a masterclas­s in elegance. Superb, but if it’s too pricey Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay (£ 14.99, Majestic Wine) is a good introducti­on to Wilcox’s style.

£ 43.50, Specialist Cellars; Farr Vintners; Fine & Rare Wines

Tasmania: Tolpuddle Coal River Valley Chardonnay 2018

Move over Burgundy, here comes Tasmania. My favourite chardonnay and pinot noir producer is Tolpuddle vineyard, owned by Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith. Named after Tolpuddle Martyr convicts sent from England to Tasmania, whose leader George Loveless worked on a vineyard.

£ 49.99, Vinvm; £ 48, Vincognito for 2019 vintage

Join Rose’s Tuscan Red virtual tasting, www. rosemurray­brown. com

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