What to do in the garden in the tricky month of March
With crocuses and early daffodils in bloom, and the buds of many shrubs and trees swelling fast, it finally feels like spring is within reach. March can be a tricky though, because it is easy to get caught out by changeable weather when you’re keen to get ahead with early sowings and there are numerous tasks to finish before plants launch into growth.
After months of rain and snow most soils are sodden and will probably remain too cold to sow all but the hardiest seeds until late March.
If you’re keen to start sowing, try warming soil under a covering of horticultural fleece or cloches for at least two weeks beforehand, or make use of raised beds where the freedraining soil warms up faster.
Whatever you do, don’t rush to sow early vegetables, or plant seed potatoes and onion sets before you see the first flush of weed seeds beginning to germinate.
If conditions are too cold and wet they are unlikely to grow and will simply rot in the soil.
Broad beans and hardy peas are the toughest crops to try first, followed by small successional sowings of radishes, lettuce and spinach as the weather gets milder.
These crops, and others like beetroot and spring onions, can be started in pots under cover in a greenhouse, cold frame or on a windowsill, to harden off and plant out later.
Sow tomato seeds on a warm windowsill indoors in mid-march, to give plants to move out to the greenhouse in May or outdoors in early June.
I also plant early potatoes in large pots in the greenhouse at around the same time to sneak in a quicker crop of baby new potatoes.
March is the last chance to plant bare-root shrubs, trees and roses, as well as a good time to start lifting and dividing existing clumps of herbaceous perennials to pep up established borders.
Cut back any remaining old growth on perennials, protect new shoots from slugs and snails as they emerge and add supports early so that plants can grow through and hide them.
There is also plenty of pruning to keep you busy. Cut Clematis that flower in mid- to late summer (known as group 3), back to a healthy pair of buds about 60cm (2ft) above the ground on each stem.
Prune shrubs that flower on new growth in summer, such as Buddleja davidii and Lavatera, back hard to keep them a manageable size and promote flowering.
Shrubs like Cornus sanguinea, grown for colourful young stems, should also be cut back close to ground level during March to produce a vibrant display next winter.
March is the last chance to plant bare-root shrubs, trees and roses