Garnacha is enjoying a revival in Navarra region
If there is one region which is benefitting from the world’s fascination with the garnacha grape, it's the Kingdom of Navarra in north-east Spain. In my mind garnacha has always been Navarra’s calling card – making superb dark rosatos unlike anywhere else in the world – and succulent soft herby reds with a brightness of fruit, lushness and elegance.
But the garnacha grape, which once used to cover 90 per cent of Navarra’s vineyards, fell out of favour in the 1980s. With the great vine pull, which was happening worldwide, many old garnacha bushvines were uprooted in Navarra and replaced in the 1990s with international favourites like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot.
Today – Spain’s native garnacha is back in fashion. Plantings are on the rise in this predominantly redgrape region. Across Navarra’s 11,000 hectares of vineyards, garnacha is now up to 42 per cent and growing – with tempranillo at 29 per cent and cabernet sauvignon at only 9 per cent.
Bearing in mind its proximity to the Pyrenees and the French border, there is understandably a lot of French influence in Navarra. The French grapes have not been forgotten, but what we are now seeing is a new generation of winemakers in Navarra who have cleverly cracked the code – putting the two together. They are combining the old native grapes with the new incomers making some stunningly attractive blends – often at remarkably good prices.
One little known fact about Navarra which was really highlighted in our tasting is the quality of its chardonnay. It makes some of the best in Spain (look for Chivite and Castillo de Monjardin) – but they are not at all well-known and the prices are eye-poppingly good.
Rosados deserve a mention too as they are some of the best in the world of their type. One in three rosés in Spain come from Navarra. But there is a problem here. Navarra’s rosados are deep and dark in colour; sadly this style is not in fashion today in a world that desires paler and paler pinks. Like many of Navarra’s wines, they are mainly drunk in Spain – but with the superb prices on offer on our shelves they really deserve to be better known elsewhere.
White: Chardonnay 2020 Castillo Monjardin Star buy
The quality of this unoaked chardonnay is astonishing at this price. It combines such intense citric fruits, with rich tropical fruit flavours and surprisingly good freshness with its bright natural acidity.
£9.95, Tanners Wine
Rosé: Senorio de Sarria Garnacha Rosado 2020 Bodegas de Sarria
Deep dark rose is popular in Navarra, but out of fashion elsewhere. Personally I prefer a bit of colour in my pink. This easy quaffing rosé with its ripe raspberry fruits and fresh vibrant palate is a great buy at under £6.
£5.95, The Wine Society; £8.95, North South Wines; All About Wine; ND John Wines
Red: Old Vine Garnacha el Chapparal 2019 Bodegas Nekeas Star value
Another extraordinary Navarra bargain made from 70-115 year old bush vines. It might be 15 per cent alcohol but you certainly don’t notice it – cherry and red plum aromas, silky soft tannins, such freshness, appealingly approachable.
£5.99 each for six bottles/£10.99 bt, Majestic Wine; Graft Wines
Red: Garnacha de Montana 2018 Unsi
Subdued aroma, but intense with rich red cherry fruits and very juicy vibrant palate with a soft brush of French oak – lively fresh acidity from its high altitude origin 600-700m in easterly Baja Montana subzone near the Pyrenees.
£14.99, Averys, www.averys.com
Red: Otazu Premium Cuvée 2018 Bodegas Otazu
Closest in style to Bordeaux – aged 12 months in French oak. Vivid fruity aromas of black plums and blackcurrants, velvety texture with some gripping tannins – ideal for serving with roast lamb.
£11-£12 Gallagher Fine Wines, Peter Graham Wines, Grape to Glass, Honest Wine Co, Solent Wine Experience
Red: Raso de Larrainzar Single Vineyard Reserva 2013 Bodegas Pago de Larrainzar
Star buy
Very attractive blend from a historic estate in westerly Tierra Estella subzone. Bright cherry fruits, rich chewy concentrate palate with rounded finish, well integrated balanced wine aged 14 months in French oak.
£13.88, Artisan Food Company
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