Top for post Covid skiing

Morzine is one of the most accessible resorts for a French ski holiday, says Scarlett Sangster

The first weekend of the French ski season was a snowy one. We landed in Geneva on a Friday evening, just as the snowstorm hit – the flakes were falling in hypnotic spirals, and we could barely make out the tail lights of the car in front.

Luckily, our destination, Morzine Avoriaz, was just on the other side of the Swiss-french border – an hour or so by car, making it one of the easiest resorts for UK tourists to reach.

Needless to say, I didn’t get my first real glimpse of Morzine’s snowquilted mountainscape until the next morning, but it was worth the wait. Drawing back my curtains, the sky was translucent blue, painting the perfect contrast with the tree-lined mountaintops.

Padding downstairs, I took my first look around the eight bedroom chalet I was staying in, run by Alikats Mountain Holidays – one of their seven catered and self-catered chalets available throughout the year. As part of the catered holiday package, I woke each morning to a fresh pot of Alikat’s home-brewed coffee and a cooked breakfast to set me up for the day.

That first morning’s dish was an indulgent savoury French toast, complete with gooey gruyere cheese and richly seasoned mushrooms – the perfect start to my French alpine escape. After breakfast, my skis and ski boots were fitted at the chalet (all part of the service), while our personal driver waited to take us to the ski lift in the village of Morzine. So far, the whole experience couldn’t have felt less stressful – now I just had to pray I remembered how to ski.

The Morzine Avoriaz slopes link the charming village of Morzine to the purpose-built Avoriaz resort, nestled on the side of the mountain.

The main ski area is called ‘Le Pleney’, which together with the local area of Les Gets harbours 120 kilometres of pistes divided into 69 runs (three green, 29 blue, 28 red and nine black), served by 48 lifts all accessed using the same ski pass. For an adult, full run of the Morzine to Les Gets slopes comes to €280/£236 for seven days, while a single child costs €217/£183 for the week.

However, this is just the beginning of the full mountain range that can be explored. By hopping over the valley, visitors can discover even further connections via the ‘Super Morzine’ gondola, linking Morzine with the rest of the Portes du Soleil – making it one of the largest linked ski areas in the world.

So, who exactly is the Morzine

Avoriaz resort looking to attract? New skiers, young skiers, families, advanced skiers? It’s a good question, and while ‘everyone’ might seem like a bit of a cop-out, I’m going to ahead and say it anyway. Yes, I know what you’re thinking, but Morzine Avoriaz really does have something for everyone.

Let’s start with families. Avoriaz is without a doubt one of the best ski resorts in France for families, boasting a purpose-built children’s village – ski school, leisure centre and childcare centre rolled into one. Here, kids of all ages and abilities can hit the snow with half and full-day courses including ski lessons, meals and activities to keep them occupied, while parents explore the wider slopes. The ski-in/ski-out nature of Avoriaz hotels is another plus point, with the fully pedestrianised mountain-top resort offering both ease and safety for young families in search of a stress-free return to the slopes.

Then, when your legs have turned to jelly, you can take a plunge into the glorious 30-degree waters of Aquariaz, Europe’s highest water park (open Monday to Saturday

A view of Morzine Avoriaz, main; on the slopes, top; the top of Le Pleny, above

throughout the winter season). Aquariaz has everything, from river rapids and jacuzzis to flumes and water cannons – just the thing to help defrost frozen fingers and toes.

There’s also the resort’s aprèsski scene, with the likes of chic independently run Jaja Bar, Le Shooters, famed for its choice of colourful shots, and The Place, where those who still have energy to burn will find a different band headlining every evening.

But for those in the know, La Folie Douce is the place to go for aprèsski, attracting the young and readyto-party with a raunchy concoction of snow-cooled cocktails and glitzy cabaret.

Having exhausted myself on the slopes I had the absolute pleasure of returning each evening to a threecourse, locally-sourced feast cooked fresh by my wonderful hosts. After this, I could kick back by a roaring fire and reflect this might be the most relaxing and indulgent way to experience the mountains.

So far, the whole experience couldn’t have felt less stressful

British Airways (ba.com) from London Heathrow to Geneva, starting at £78 return. A week’s stay at Alikats from £878pp in April 2022. Visit alikats.eu. France (uk.france.fr) for news relating to Covid-19 regulations.