The Scotsman

German white wines for the crispest of quaffing

- Rose Murraybrow­n @rosemurray­brown

German wines are perfect for summertime drinking with their moderate alcohol levels, featherwei­ght lightness, vibrant racy acidity, food friendline­ss – and sheer drinkabili­ty. Check out our picks from across the German regions for the best crisp refreshing whites.

Nahe: Monzinger Riesling Kabinett 2018

Star buy

A superb Nahe estate with slate and quartzite soil vineyards creating mouthwater­ingly precise long-lived Nahe rieslings with both delicate floral aromas, pithy freshness, gentle sweetness, saline notes and minerally length.

£20, Justerini & Brooks

Mosel: Definition Mosel Riesling 2020

Good introducti­on to off-dry crisp zesty riesling made by the renowned Loosen family, Ernst and Thomas, from their dizzyingly steel slopes in middle Mosel valley. Serve with cheese or lightly spiced Asian food. £9.99 mixed 6 bts or £11.99 bt Majestic Wine

Saar: Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett 2019 Star buy

Dorothee Zilliken makes thrilling mouthwater­ingly taut whites in Germany’s coolest region, the Saar valley. This is feather light with blossomy fruits and such delicacy, underpinne­d with pure herbs and fine citrus flavours.

£20, The Wine Society (2020 vintage); Howard Ripley Wines; Justerinis

Pfalz: Scheu Aber Geil 2020

Made from little-known scheurebe grape in the warm southern Pfalz region around Landau-nussdorf. Grapefruit, mandarin and lime flavours, pithy, dry, light and refreshing­ly crisp.

£18, Field & Fawcett

Rheinhesse­n: Nierstein Riesling 2016

Savoury and mineral rather than overt fruitiness is Kuhling-gillot’s philosophy in their northern Rheinhesse­n vineyards of Pettenthal, Hipping and Olberg with their red slate soils. Mature honeyed notes, smoke and spicy minerality combine in this exquisite rich dry riesling. £23, Justerini & Brooks

Mosel: Maximin Herrenberg 1896 Riesling Trocken Alte Reben White Label 2018

From a legendary south-facing vineyard just north of Trier planted with 124-year-old vines; grapefruit, lemony, hints of salinity with long lingering length. 2018 was a gift vintage with more than 90 sunny days, giving a rich style.

£27.99, Raeburn Fine Wines

Baden: Malterding­er Weiss 2019

Superb blend from Baden’s leading producer, reminiscen­t of flinty dry white Burgundy with a nervy freshness and elegance – serve blind with a Rully or Chablis for a bit of fun. £24, Justerini & Brooks

Rheingau: The Society's Exhibition Rheingau Riesling 2019

Star buy

A modern take on the classic style with green apple notes, fine spicy fruit, lovely length and minerally finish – made by superstar winemaker Gunter Kunstler from vineyards overlookin­g the Rhine on its northern banks.

£13.95, The Wine Society

Rheinhesse­n: Pinot Blanc 2020

Very impressive effort from Weingut Frey in the Ober-florsheim village in southwest Rheinhesse­n. Hints of apple, honey and bread, refreshing­ly pure fruits with zippy dry clean finish.

£19, Vino Wines, Edinburgh

Mosel: Goldstuck Riesling Trocken

Star buy

Piquant dry racy riesling from Niederberg Helden vineyard near Piesport. A tightrope act between acid and fruit, it has classy nervy tension, slight prickle on the palate, sappy, grapefruit pith and peel notes, all in a dry linear style.

£18 Justerini & Brooks

Rheinhesse­n: Weinhaus Pinot Gris Urmeer 2021

Dry pinot gris with lemon, pear and mealy notes, zingy minerally palate and soft rounded lemony flavours. £8.99, Waitrose

Nahe: Riesling Trocken 2019

Juicy lemon freshness, flinty bouquet, smoky, stony – a beautifull­y sleek slender riesling from Tim Frohlich, one of Nahe’s top riesling winemakers, who has amassed an enviable collection of steep slopes around Bochenau, having sold off his flat land.

£17.68, Howard Ripley Wines

Join Rose’s Fine Wine Dinners at Prestonfie­ld House Hotel, Thursday 1 December, and The Peat Inn, Thursday 8 December www. rosemurray­brown.com

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