The cream Of Cornwall
The Old Ferry Inn in Bodinnick is a stylish way to enjoy Cornwall, says Lisa Marks
It says something about Fowey in Cornwall that Daphne du Maurier, the revered novelist, not only lived there but had a holiday home on the other side of the river at Bodinnick. The Jamaica Inn writer probably wasn’t aware of it but that may have been when the spirit of the staycation was born.
Going on holiday in 2022 is not without risks and a staycation brings its concerns, most of which are either traffic or weather-based. But while you can’t guarantee Tenerife temperatures or an empty motorway, a UK break can confidently deliver excellent service, beautiful scenery and the most memorable of times.
Living up to all expectations The Old Ferry Inn, in Bodinnick, is the kind of staycation unicorn we should all be searching for right now. A mere 20-minute cab ride from Bodmin Parkway train station, this historic building dates back to the 1500s, but thanks to a chic refurbishment feels traditional and modern at the same time.
While this 11-room inn doesn’t accept children under the age of 16, it is supremely pet-friendly, which is why you're more than likely to meet eight -year-old Archie, a docile Newfoundland (the breed that’s the size of a sideboard) who will shamelessly high-five you for treats. No one has a better life than Archie, although his owner Paul Worswick, also the Inn’s owner, and his staff go to great lengths to ensure that your time there is nothing short of delightful.
It’s clear that Paul, and his executive chef Kai Taylor, are working hard to offer guests that little bit extra. I loved all the details that made my stay special. Squares of salted caramel fudge made on the premises are left in your room, Kai’s Sunday roast evokes the best memories of family gatherings, and their hot chocolate recipe is available for you to mix and sip as you watch the long boats skim across the river. Adorable breakfast hampers for even lazier mornings are delivered to your door, and their Cornish cream tea ( jam first) is a must.
Chef Kai is adamant that everything you eat comes from an approximate 20-mile radius; kippers are from Looe, eggs are from St Ewe, and the crab is from Mevagissey. James Kittow butchers in Fowey supplies the meat, cod is boat-caught that day and the jam is from Boddington’s up the road. They smoke their own salmon too.
At the side of the Inn’s snug bar – which offers Cornish Gold cider and home-pickled onions – you’ll find their artisanal shop. You can purchase all kinds of local pies, honey, fudge, milk and eggs and, thrillingly, you can also find the Inn’s micro distillery.
The bespoke bottles of gin, rum, vodka and tequila are crafted by Paul’s own hand under his Yards banner. The still he uses sits in the corner of the shop and is called Alan.
Alan, it has to be said, is very good at his job. The chilli tequila was a cheeky surprise indeed.
After you’ve fuelled up, I suggest you set out on Hall Walk, a moderate four-mile circular ramble along National Trust land. It’s the most congenial way to explore the local towns, woodlands and beach at Lantic Bay, as well as enjoy two short ferry rides (from Polruan to Fowey, and then Fowey to Bodinnick).
The walk down to Lantic Bay is not for the faint-hearted but you can always skip that and head along the bluff to Polruan, a small town that during my visit had been
judging a scarecrow competition; they stood in every front garden and were equal parts wonderful and terrifying. Peruse Fowey’s many shops and boutiques while preparing yourself for another mouth-watering Old Ferry Inn feast. The ferry back to Bodinnick is only a couple of pounds per person (£10 for a car) and offers a great view of Daphne’s back lawn, complete with ornamental geese.
On a summer’s evening relax with a cocktail on one of their estuaryfacing terraces, or a soak in their newly installed hot tub. There’s no finer way to watch the sun set; the air is clear, the yacht masts jangle excitedly and the big skies seem more orange than anywhere else in the world.
Best of all, unlike Archie you won’t have to high-five anyone to enjoy a staycation treat like this – but after a stay at The Old Ferry Inn, you’ll probably want to.
Breakfast hampers for lazy mornings are delivered to your door
From June to September, rooms at The Old Ferry Inn start from £125 per room per night. There is a charge of £10 per night per pet. Visit www. theoldferryinn.co.uk, email info@ oldferryinn.co.uk or call 01726 870237. Flights from Edinburgh to Newquay start from £105 one way.