The Scotsman

Black outfits from ‘little black dress’ to leather and latex take centre stage

- By BRIAN FERGUSON bferguson@scotsman.com

Cocktail dresses and cuttingedg­e catwalk creations will be brought together with punk and fetish outfits for a major new fashion exhibition at Scotland’s busiest visitor attraction.

Work by Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior and Jean Muir will be going on display at the National Museum in Edinburgh in a show reflecting how the colour black has shaped trends and reflected changing lifestyles over the last century.

The 2023 show, which will open for the city’s summer festivals season, will look at the “radical power” of the colour black in fashion.

More than 60 different outfits will chart the history of the “little black dress” since Chanel’s groundbrea­king design in 1926, recall how it became “a symbol of femininity and a byword for chic” and explore its relationsh­ip to race, gender and sexuality.

The exhibition, Beyond the Little Black Dress, will also highlight the work of leading black British designers.

The official announceme­nt on the exhibition states: “The colour black can be interprete­d in many subtle and often contradict­ory ways.

“The exhibition will explore how its complexiti­es have made the little black dress simultaneo­usly expressive of piety and perversion, respect and rebellion; from the wellmanner­ed cocktail attire of the early 20th century to the leather and latex worn by members of punk and fetish subculture­s.

”Beyond the Little Black Dress will open with a simple, short black dress designed by Coco Chanel in 1926.

"Considered radically modern, it disregarde­d convention entirely in both the stark design and sombre shade that had traditiona­lly been associated with mourning.

“The little black dress remains a blank canvas for broader political and cultural

shifts. It can challenge social norms around race, gender and sexuality to reflect evolving ideals of beauty and identity, proving its infinite capacity for reinventio­n.”

Georgina Ripley, principal curator of modern and contempora­ry design at the National Museum, said: “Few garments are as iconic as the little black dress, which has often been held up by the fashto

ion industry as the one piece every woman should have in her wardrobe. It has evolved dramatical­ly in the century since its creation.

"From a simple shift dress which helped democratis­e women’s fashion to a bold political statement, it has moved through various iterations which reflect changing ideals of beauty and body image.

"This exhibition will explore

its enduring success, and ask why, in the fickle and fastpaced fashion world, the little black dress has achieved that rare status of being truly above the fray.”

The next major exhibition to open at the National Museum will be devoted to Doctor Who and the science behind the long-running science-fiction series.

Visitors will get the chance

come face-to-face with some of The Doctor’s most celebrated enemies including Daleks, Cybermen and Weeping Angels.

Doctor Who Worlds of Wonder will run from 9 December till 1 May ahead of the debut of Ncuti Gatwa as The Doctor in 2023 – the 60th anniversar­y of the show.

 ?? ?? ↑ From left, ‘Florence’ hood and ‘Spray’ dress by Cimone, 2017; Woman’s evening dress, French, c.1929; Ying Gao, Flowing Water, Standing Time, 2019
↑ From left, ‘Florence’ hood and ‘Spray’ dress by Cimone, 2017; Woman’s evening dress, French, c.1929; Ying Gao, Flowing Water, Standing Time, 2019

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