A feast for Foodies
In Ibiza, Mhairi Clarke finds sunshine and a side order of Yotam Ottolenghi-style inspiration
All seasons of course present an abundant array of nature’s bounty to rouse a quarterly culinary renaissance in the kitchen, however, it’s the transition from summer to autumn that truly awakens my inner chef.
As I floated towards the end of my own last hurrah of summer recently in Ibiza, an invitation landed in my in box, to an exclusive dinner at Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel with internationally acclaimed chef, restaurateur, food writer and one of the globe’s most influential food talents, Yotam Ottolenghi.
Who could be a better inspiration to take me, my pots, pans and epicurean enthusiasm into these golden few weeks ahead? What could possibly be a better venue…
Simple, chic and with a touch of Ibiza glamour, the resort is nestled at the foot of the Atzaró mountain, against a lush backdrop of Sabina and pine tree forests. Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel is built on the site of a 300-yearold finca within a sprawling, secluded 13-hectare estate of thriving farmland, fragrant orange groves, tropical palms and Mediterranean herb and fruit gardens.
Food is one of the strongest points of the hotel, with the farm to fork philosophy connecting every dish with nature; organic vegetables, fruits and herbs are plucked daily from the Atzaró Vegetable Garden.
Ottolenghi at Atzaró, I expect, will be a match made in an organic slice of Ibizan heaven. The air beneath the most magnificent lantern dressed umbrella pine tree is filled with subdued beats, clinking glasses and chilled chitter chatter in anticipation of this extraordinary event.
Introducing the menu, Ottolenghi tells guests “It’s all about the produce; everything tastes so much better when it’s grown around you.” A self-confessed ‘Ibiza virgin’ (this is Ottolenghi’s first visit to the island), he announces, “Tonight, we’re playing with some Spanish traditions, dipping our toe in this rich environment and enjoying everything this beautifully fertile island has got.”
Ingredients have been freshly picked from the Atzaró Vegetable Garden, non-vegetable elements locally sourced and a selection of local wines carefully curated to complement each stage of the menu journey.
‘The Ottolenghi effect’; colour, flavour, bounty and sunshine runs through each of the five courses. The first course, caramelised onion
and fresh herb salsa, served with Atzaró Vegetable Garden crudités is “all about the greens” according to Ottolenghi. It’s textural joy; sublimely silken with a divinely dippable texture and bursting with fresh summer flavours and goodness. The grilled Padrón peppers and muhammara cups with walnuts and pomegranate molasses are a sweet, nutty, tangy twist on traditional tapas.
Next to arrive is a dish of Atzaró Vegetable Garden tomatoes with confit herbs and sesame black lime focaccia, “sharp, punchy black limes from the Persian Gulf ”. The fluffy, chewy texture of focaccia pairs so perfectly with the ripe firmness of the sweet, aromatic tomatoes.
The arrival of each dish is a treat for all senses; vibrant, multi-layered compositions of simple ingredients that sing. The roasted aubergine with feta cream, chermoula and orange is a joyful addition to the table. It looks too good to mess with; we do, heartily.
The chargrilled and roasted courgettes with Manchego cheese, burnt butter and pine nuts dish is earthy, mellow and utterly exquisite; the accompanying Can Axartell
organically farmed white wine, a perfect pairing.
The entrance of a plate of juicy, succulent strips of shawarma lamb with pita pockets, sumac tahini, pomegranate and mint salad is a highlight. The most fragrant, warming dish with a subtle zesty, uplifting tartness – a tastebud trip and sensory delight.
A showstopping sunset pavlova with apricots, orange blossom and pistachio brings a dreamy end to the most flavourful celebration of life, love and food.
I leave the white isle filled with inspiration, creative ideas and a renewed zest for the kitchen.
The word ‘Ottolenghi-fied’, connoting flair and a twist to the familiar was coined by the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen team. As I board the flight home, my husband reminds me (as he does at the end of every holiday) of the old Scots phrase “Back to old clothes and porridge then.”
I’m pretty sure there’s a way to Ottolenghify even that…
I leave the white isle filled with a renewed zest for the kitchen
Rates at the Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel start from €245 in low season, for a double bedroom including breakfast, yoga; wellness classes and full spa facilities and go up to €1375 in high season, atzaro.com