Goring’s Royal treatment
A stay at London’s iconic Goring Hotel transports you to another world of effortless luxury, writes Rachel Roberts
The walls of The Goring Hotel, the grand Edwardian hotel in London’s Belgravia, talk. Not actual words of course – this isn’t a fairy tale, although there is an undeniable magic about the place – the concierge showing me around the fivestar establishment during my stay is pointing out the stories and history depicted on the whimsical hand-painted murals in the one-of-a-kind lobby.
At first glance, the silver-leaf covering appears to be a kind of mythical garden populated by a coterie of creatures. A closer look slowly reveals its secrets. The monkey clutching a bunch of keys in his hand, for example, represents the Head Concierge, ‘Big John’. In another corner, the joyous pig holding a glass aloft is founder Otto Goring; a tribute to his legendary hosting skills and love of socialising. A sleek seal popping its head above the water is a nod to his greatgrandson and current owner Jeremy Goring, and his love of surfing.
Highly skilled Chinese artists weaved them all onto the luxury Fromental wallpaper when The Goring temporarily closed its doors – the first time ever since opening in 1910 – for refurbishment in 2014.
Just a stone’s throw (or should that be a diamond?) from Buckingham Palace, the long-standing link between The Goring and the British monarchy stretches back to the coronations of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth II, when the grand receptions were held there.
And of course, on 29 April 2011, the world watched on as Kate departed the hotel to marry Prince William at Westminster Abbey.
But the beauty of The Goring is that you don’t have to possess a title to enjoy the royal treatment. From the moment we are politely ushered in by the doorman, resplendent in tailcoat and bowler hat, any feeling of imposter syndrome evaporates. Sure, there’s that unmistakable rarified air you find in places frequented by the wealthy and privileged, yet the family-run hotel, now on its fourth generation of Gorings, wears its fine pedigree lightly, without a hint of stuffiness.
Aside from the tongue-incheek wall coverings, there are lovely, homely touches, such as the quirky sheep-shaped footstools. The story goes that George Goring OBE (third generation) was gifted the first one and it swiftly became a talking point with guests, leading him to seek out the maker and order more, turning it into something of a hotel mascot. Now you’ll spy them all over the place.
We’ve arrived just in time for pre-dinner drinks in the Cocktail Bar, a decadent Art Deco affair with jewel-hued velvet banquettes and an ornate fireplace, with the original sheep footstool beside it. We sip on Queen Victoria’s Fizz, one of a clutch of classic cocktails infused with herbs grown in the Goring’s gardens, accompanied by the soothing tinkling of the pianist on the grand piano. And of course, it’s the perfect spot for people watching to get an idea of the clientele. Beside us, an American couple are celebrating a significant wedding anniversary, opposite, two City types are deep in
The family-run hotel wears its fine pedigree lightly
conversation and the lively group near the entrance are speaking in Korean.
The Dining Room restaurant, described as ‘a place where traditional and delicious British food triumphs’, was designed by David Linley (another royal connection – he’s the son of the late Princess Margaret) and is all crisp white table linen and clean classic architectural lines, with a sprinkling of razzle dazzle courtesy of Swarovski chandeliers.
As the holder of a Michelin star since 2015 and three AA Rosettes, we are in for a rare treat. We sample one of the Queen Mother’s favourites, The Goring Eggs Drumkilbo, a heavenly combination of lobster, caviar and roasted tomatoes and order the Longhorn beef Wellington, a signature dish of roast rib for two.
We figure it would be rude not to keep our sommelier busy, too, and he selects the best wine pairings from an impressive collection of more than 500 labels from all over the world. Perhaps that’s why we weave, rather than walk, back to our Superior Room on the third floor along a wide corridor that once accommodated the voluminous dresses of Edwardian ladies.
The Goring offers 69 luxurious rooms and suites, all individually decorated by renowned British designers such as Russell Sage and Nina Campbell, and ours is simply spectacular. Burnished gold silk-covered walls and intricately carved dark wood panels give serious Britishopulence-meets headyshanghai-nights vibes.
Relaxing in the deep marble bath with a glass of chilled champagne poured from our welcome bottle is a wonderfully decadent moment and one that readers of this review can experience for themselves by mentioning The Scotsman when making a booking for any room. Gorgeous Asprey products and the finest Egyptian towels and bathrobes take it to the next level.
The following morning, we’re delighted to be offered a glimpse of the Royal Suite. The penthouse also enjoys the best views of The Goring’s gardens, and the mast of Buckingham Palace is also visible, handy for any visiting dignitaries wishing to see if the King is home. Despite my best efforts, the concierge is the embodiment of discretion, politely changing the subject when I try to coax out any clues to the clientele who check into this private enclave.
However, I’m intrigued by a small oil painting in the bathroom, which depicts Rowan Atkinson playing the roguish Blackadder in the cult comedy series and Queenie, played with delicious naughtiness by Miranda Richardson. The concierge obviously won’t elaborate but I wonder: did it hang there during Kate Middleton’s stay on the eve of her wedding day?
That mystery may never be solved, but it’s a lovely reminder of The Goring’s ability not to take itself too seriously, bringing a smile to my face every time I recall it in the weeks to come.
A Superior Room starting rate, including breakfast and taxes, is £871 per night. Visit thegoring. com or call 020 7396 9000.