A clifftop lion... it’s the pride of Greece
WITH great beaches, superb diving conditions, good walks, excellent restaurants and enough history and archaeology to satisfy the most devoted Hellenophile, the tiny Greek island of Kea is a gem as yet untouched by mass tourism.
Friends working in Athens sing its praises. They and other Athenians, including the great and the good with exclusive and secluded villas on the nearin accessible west of the island, nip over for weekends and for much of August. Canny visitors do the reverse – spend the weekend in Athens and take a midweek break on Kea.
The ancient capital Ioulida, built inland to avoid pirates, is unexpected and intriguing as it twists its way through the hills. As we walked carefully down the irregularly paved narrow streets to the light and airy archaeological museum, we passed tavernas, small shops, white houses with brightly coloured geraniums in window boxes, and cheerful children freed from school.
One of many walks on the ancient tracks leads to the famous Kea Lion. Grazing goats ignored us as we scrambled past them to get a closer look. Carved out of granite some 2,600 years ago and an imposing 30ft high, the lion has, understandably, a rather weary Mona Lisa smile.
Monks no longer live in the monastery of Panagia Kastrianis, which stands magnificent atop a cliff. Their cells, converted to basic en suite rooms, are now let out to travellers, but the old chapel, dim and quiet and with its miraculous icon on display, is open to the public.
A paved courtyard – quiet and restful with bands of Cycladian blue painted round the boles of the shady trees, plant pots and rubbish bins – is pure Greek.
After a day spent walking, exploring and clambering up to the atmospheric ruined citadel of Karthea high above a remote beach, we swam from the popular, sandy Gialiskari beach, which is backed by shady eucalyptus trees.
Afterwards, reclining on comfortable loungers, we drank chilled white wine as the sun set over the glittering blue Aegean. Bliss.
Kea is a little jewel. New houses, including holiday homes to buy or to rent, have been built from local stone to blend in with the landscape, while classical Greek dishes rather than European staples are on most menus.
Kalofagdes in Ioulida, Magazes in Korissia and Aristo in the attractive fishing village of Vourkari, popular at weekends with the yachting crowd, are among the best.
GETTING
THERE
Kea Villas (keavillas.gr) offers a self-catering property sleeping four from £190 for four nights.
Porto Kea Suites, one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is on the Korissia seafront (slh.com/hotels/porto-kea-suites). The ferry journey from Lavrio, south of Athens, takes an hour. Pay at the port or alternatively visit openseas. gr. British Airways (ba.com) offers return flights from Heathrow to Athens from £114 per person.