Chilling on the Royal Coast...
Katie Nicholl wraps up warm for a relaxing tour of bracing Norfolk
NORFOLK is very much in vogue and it’s all thanks to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. When William, Kate and Prince George moved into Anmer Hall, their new country residence near Sandringham, they put the sleepy hamlet of Anmer on the map.
It’s just a hop from the remote, beautiful and wild coastline of North Norfolk, which has become more popular than ever, attracting visitors from as far afield as Australia and Canada.
This part of the world has long been associated with the Royal Family, of course. King George V described the Royal estate at Sandringham as ‘the place I love better than anywhere in the world’.
The Royals traditionally spend Christmas there and, during the summer, generations of Royal children have enjoyed seaside holidays on this coast.
Wi t h its expansive sand dunes and infinite sea and sky vistas, Holkham Nature Reserve is a mustvisit destination.
Take a walk on Holkham Beach (immortalised in the film Shakespeare In Love) and you might be lucky enough to witness a sunset that turns the white sands a magical hue of pink. You will also see wildfowl and waders feeding on the marshland before bedding down for the night.
Birds are very much a part of Norfolk life. They are reared and eaten, shot (the Royals shoot on Boxing Day at Sandringham) and observed. The RSPB reserve at Titchwell Marsh has great lookouts and plenty of information about the local area and wildlife.
WE HEADED to Snettisham beach to watch dawn break and witness the awe-inspiring flight of pink-footed geese. About 40,000 of these birds migrate from Iceland to the Norfolk coast, where they stay from October through to April. At first light they fly in great flocks from the coastal marshes to farmland to feed.
Like a noisy black cloud sweeping across the sky, they form a spectacular aerodynamic ‘V’. One word of warning – the winds off the North Sea are unforgiving, so do wrap up warm if you fancy witnessing this incredible spectacle. Let’s just say we were very grateful for a hearty breakfast when we got back to our hotel. There are plenty of great places to stay in the area – you’ll find an impressive portfolio of topend holiday lettings at Barefoot Retreats (barefootretreats.co.uk).
We preferred the luxury of a hotel and enjoyed three nights at Congham Hall Hotel, a stone’s-throw from Sandringham. Set in 30 acres of prime countryside and with just 26 rooms, it’s a traditional country hotel with a major advantage over its competitors – the newly refurbished Secret Garden Spa.
We took a daily dip in the hydrotherapy pool and I enjoyed a deeply relaxing full-body massage and bespoke facial. I particularly loved sitting in the outdoor hot-tub watching cows grazing nearby.
There’s a well stocked library and two lounges with open fires in the main house, while the fine-dining restaurant has beautiful views of the countryside and there’s an impressive wine list delivered via an iPad. There’s real attention to detail throughout the hotel, from home-made cookies in the room to a complimentary car windscreen wash every morning.
The hotel makes an ideal base from which to explore the area – the nearby ruins at Castle Rising are well worth a visit. For shopping, Holt and Burnham Market (both of which have the Duchess’s stamp of approval) are a drive away.
The Antiques Emporium in Holt, where Kate was seen buying gifts, is an Aladdin’s cave of goodies, and Pentney House in Burnham Market is a hat lovers’ paradise.
I enjoyed eating my way along the coast and there are so many culinary delights to discover. William and Kate recently dined at the Dabbling Duck in the village of Great Massingham (Sir Alan Sugar often comes in for lunch too). The menu is original and well priced. For a meal with a truly spectacular view, reserve a table at The White Horse in Brancaster Staithe. I would recommend the smoked haddock and brown shrimp crumble followed by mussels ‘from the ‘garden’ (the Norfolk coastal path runs in front of the hotel).
Walk off lunch with a yomp and don’t leave before stopping off at Heacham, further along the coast. With its colourful beach huts and promenade, the beach retains the feel of a traditional seaside stop. You just might not feel like an ice cream at this time of the year…