Cracking the da Vinci code
Leonardo’s 500th anniversary is next year – but the big puzzle is where’s the best place to learn about his genius? Head for Milan, says Simon Heptinstall, and you’ll soon be...
THE life of the greatest genius of the Renaissance period – painter, musician, engineer and inventor Leonardo da Vinci – is being celebrated in 2019 to mark the 500th anniversary of his death.
The most exciting place to celebrate his legacy is Milan, which has already opened its Leonardo 500 festival. Here we sketch out the six top spots to visit…
1 WORLD OF LEONARDO
Why go? This lively museum is not part of any official Leonardo tours but is the best fun. With digital screens, working models and handson displays, it is an entertaining introduction to Leonardo’s paintings, inventions and notebooks. Genius factor: See hundreds of models and inventions based on his sketches, try building his selfsupporting bridge, and zoom into his paintings on huge screens. The virtual-reality Last Supper is even more engaging than the real thing. Unexpected highlight: Leonardo’s 15th Century ‘robot’. Insider tip: Head upstairs to find an extraordinary walkway across old rooftops with views of the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and Duomo. You can even sip an Aperol in the open-air bar up there. Cost: €12 (£11), children €9 (£8) leonardo3.net/en/the-museum
2 THE LAST SUPPER
Why go? It’s essential to visit Leonardo’s World Heritage mural in a refectory at the medieval Santa Maria delle Grazie monastery. Genius factor: At almost 29ft wide, this painting has sensational perspective and brilliantly observed characters. Don’t be disappointed that its colours and details have faded over the centuries. Unexpected highlight: The quirky adjoining shop sells ‘build-it yourself’ models of his inventions. Insider tip: It’s billed as Leonardo’s most emotional masterpiece and some visitors are moved to tears. You’ll be more likely to cry over the queues unless you pre-book a 15minute slot in front of the painting. Cost: €12 (£11), children €2 (£2) legraziemilano.it/il-cenacolo
3 PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA
Why go? It is a fabulous gallery and museum in a 400-year-old building that was Europe’s first public library. Genius factor: Leonardo’s painting The Musician is well displayed near a full-size reproduction of The Last Supper. There is also a selection of pages from da Vinci’s notebooks. After being displayed, they are locked in the dark for two years to conserve them. Unexpected highlight: Leonardo’s awesome design for an automatic drum – the world’s first drum-machine. Insider tip: Explore other galleries to see masterpieces by Leonardo’s contemporaries and followers, such as Botticelli. Cost: €20.50 (£18), children free leonardo-ambrosiana.it/en/ la-pinacoteca-ambrosiana/
4 MUSEUM OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY
Why go? One of Europe’s largest science museums houses a huge range of mechanical exhibits, from steam trains to submarines. Now there’s a Leonardo gallery too. Genius factor: There’s a hands-on educational ‘Leonardo lab’ for children and galleries for grownups to browse models of his inventions, including a lifebelt. Unexpected highlight: Leonardo’s design for a scuba outfit, with waterproof leather suit, glass face-mask and wooden air tubes. Insider tip: Use the entrance on Via San Vittore or, like me, you’re likely to be lost for hours trying to find the Leonardo gallery. Cost: €10 (£9), children €7.50 (£7) museoscienza.org/english
5 LEONARDO’S VINEYARD
Why go? Leonardo’s vineyard was destroyed by wartime bombs, but three years ago scientists unearthed some roots and used their DNA to replant the same varieties. Genius factor: Although the site is now surrounded by roads and houses, you can still imagine Leonardo sitting down and relaxing among his vines after a hard day painting The Last Supper. Unexpected highlight: The ticket also covers the adjoining Atellani House, a charming villa. Insider tip: The grapes have been harvested and for the first time this winter you can buy ‘Leonardo’s wine’ from the stylish cafe next door. Cost: €10 (£9), children €8 (£7) vignadileonardo.com/en
6 SFORZA CASTLE
Why go? The massive red-brick Renaissance fortress dominates central Milan. The Duke of Milan’s court attracted leading 15th Century figures such as Leonardo. Genius factor: Follow Leonardo’s footsteps through the castle – he lived and worked here. Unexpected highlight: See the extraordinary last work by Leonardo’s rival Michelangelo – the Rondanini Pieta statue displayed in the castle museum. Insider Tip: The six-year restoration of the Sala delle Asse, a room with every surface decorated by Leonardo, is due to be reopened on May 2 next year. Cost: €5 (£4.50), children €3 (£2.50) milanocastello.it/en
Double rooms at the Mandarin Oriental start from €640 (£566) a night (mandarinoriental.com/ milan). A Leonardo 500 package (€1,170/£1,034 per room per night) includes private guided tours for two in a chauffeur-driven car.