How not to kill your Christmas pot plant
OVER the next few weeks, millions of us will be seduced by the tempting displays of seasonal pot plants staged by garden centres, supermarkets, DIY sheds and other stores. The plants will be in tip-top condition with a perky habit, balanced shape and healthy foliage. Some will be topped with flowers and buds.
Poinsettias, succulents, cyclamen, orchids and azaleas are likely to be among the seasonal beauties up for grabs. Once a decision has been made, they’ll be carefully wrapped up for transporting home. Many will be used to add some cheer to our interiors over winter, others will be given as Christmas gifts.
Sadly, few of these plants will ever look quite as good again as that moment they were spotted in the store. It is quite common for plants to flag within a few hours of arrival, or to limp along for a bit before giving up. Even those that make it into the New Year are often a shadow of their former self.
There are many reasons for plants failing to thrive. Lack of light, chilly draughts, central heating and poor watering will all have an impact. Sometimes the damage is done before they arrive home – pot plants like to be snug but might end up sitting in a cold car for hours as we continue shopping.
Avoid problems from the outset by buying pot plants at the end of a shopping trip so they are not in a cold car for long. Always buy ones that look in great shape and feel firm in their pots, indicating they are well rooted. Fortunately, poor specimens can usually be identified as they stand out from the crowd.
Most seasonal plants prefer a well-lit position and will start to mope if placed in a dark corner. They are best on or near a windowsill, allowing them to get plenty of natural light. Those with double-glazed windows are best as draughts of cold air will lead to foliage turning yellow, curling or falling prematurely. Steer clear of placing plants on windowsills above heaters or radiators. The warmth will dry out compost, resulting in flowers fading, stems drooping and leaves shrivelling. In fact, most pot plants prefer a cooler room. Cyclamen are particularly sensitive and will flag dramatically if it’s too hot.
Watering plants correctly is key to keeping them in fine fettle. It’s generally best to water from the base, filling up the plant’s saucer. Once the top is damp, any excess liquid can be poured away so roots don’t sit in a puddle of water.
The frequency of watering depends on variety, with succulents needing a drink every few weeks and flowering plants a good soaking whenever the compost feels dry. Watering in the morning allows splashes on leaves to dry, reducing the likelihood of diseases prospering in cooler conditions overnight.
In my experience, the group of pot plants that cause most headaches are orchids. Some of them really are fussy things that provide a challenge to the most seasoned gardener because they need high humidity, good light and special water and are ultra-sensitive to any changes in temperature.
Moth orchids (phalaenopsis) are a different beast. They are happy on a light windowsill in a warm room and need regular watering to keep roots moist.
Misting their leaves occasionally will help to keep them clean of dust and raise humidity around plants, countering the dry air from central heating.
Take care, or they can flag before you even get them back home