2 BALLYSHANNON TO CASTLEBAR
DISTANCE: 350 miles – set aside ten hours.
WOW FACTOR: The Irish call the wave-crashed shores of Sligo and Mayo ‘The Surf Coast’. There are gentle beaches and fascinating towns too. Must-sees include Mullaghmore Head, where you can watch waves up to 50ft high crashing on to the sand. Glance inland and you’ll see the distinctive peak of Benbulben mountain. The less energetic can relax along the salmon-teeming River Moy and stroll round Ballina’s historic friary, abbey and cathedral.
PITSTOP: Have yourself a ‘meejum’ – a measure halfway between a half and a pint – of Guinness in Johnny’s, Johnny McHale’s traditional pub in Mayo’s county town, Castlebar.
OVERNIGHT: Look out over the babbling River Moy from the stylish icehouse hotel (icehousehotel.ie) on Ballina’s quayside. Its spa has been voted Ireland’s best. Double B&B is from £120. Or look out into Donegal Bay from a bay window at Fitzgerald’s Hotel, Bundoran (fitzgeraldshotel. com). It’s a quirky place with big, squashy sofas run by a local family for more than 50 years. Double B&B from £82. Ostan Oilean Acla – or Achill Island Hotel – (achillislandhotel.com) is right on the shore of the Achill Island peninsula along Clew Bay. Alice’s Harbour Bar there serves Guinness, of course, plus local seafood. There’s live Irish music most nights and the hotel has bikes for hire. You’ll spot fresh flowers from the garden standing in an old teapot on the mantelpiece and a pile of interesting books on the lounge table. Double B&B is from £91.
COSY EATS: Tuck into the delicious fish soup or local mussels in front of an open fire amid model ships and nautical nicknacks – or rowdy Irish music sessions at the weekend – on offer at Austies Pub and Kitchen at Rosses Point on the Wild Atlantic Way (austies.ie).
FLY: Via frequent flights to Knock from all over the UK.