Get moving!
Shifting shrubs can make a huge impact and now’s the time to do it
IT SEEMS to be a universal truth that no matter how well you plan your plot, there will always be a plant that’s growing in the wrong place. Of course, the reason is usually down to operator error. Perhaps it’s grown taller than imagined or doesn’t fit a planting scheme. Maybe the plant isn’t happy with the aspect, soil or light.
I’m certainly not immune from making mistakes. Three years ago I planted a purple-leaved elder (Sambucus nigra f. porphyrophylla ‘Eva’) in a bed with a 4ft-tall, hardy Japanese banana. Since that time the banana has spread to form a 10ft-high, multistemmed grove and the poor elder has little room to flaunt its assets.
Fortunately for me, the stretch between late autumn and the end of winter is the perfect time for moving deciduous shrubs that have been planted in the wrong place. Known as transplanting, the process involves some preparation work, and then digging, lifting, moving and replanting the shrub in a more favourable spot. There’s a good reason why my ornamental elder, along with other deciduous varieties, are best moved during their dormant period. Being lifted from the ground results in the loss of roots, but as plants require much less water than during the growing season, they are less likely to suffer from so-called ‘transplant shock’.
Evergreen specimens should be left until early spring. If they are moved in winter, plants often dry out because roots are unable to take up moisture to replace that lost through leaves. However, with the arrival of the growing season, roots are able to take up water from the warming soil, helping plants to establish quickly.
Among the shrubs that can cope with the stress of being moved are weigela, philadelphus, cornus, ribes and deutzia. As a rule, specimens less than five years old should be relatively easy to transplant. Older plants will be bulkier and have a more extensive root system, making them harder to remove and replant.
Unfortunately, not all deciduous species respond well to being transplanted. Magnolias, roses, buddleias, daphnes and berberis are all notoriously fickle. They really don’t like their roots being disturbed and will often fail to re-establish in a new position, even when lavished with aftercare. Be that as it may, sometimes you might have to risk moving a sensitive shrub or want to take a cherished plant when upping sticks, forcing you to transplant at the wrong time of year. Obviously there are no guarantees in these circumstances but if you move it properly, it gives a plant the best chance to succeed.
Before removing the shrub, dig out a planting hole for its relocation – this may need widening or deepening later on, but partly preparing it now will reduce the time roots spend drying out due to wind or sun. If the weather has been dry, water the soil around the shrub to be moved and leave for a day to absorb.
Next, mark out the perimeter of the rootball to be removed with a cane – a circle that roughly shadows the spread of the widest branches is fine. Following the impression on the ground, dig out a circular trench that’s about 12in deep, more or less the depth of the spade’s blade. Keep the sides as straight as possible. Undercut the core of soil with the aim of removing a large root ball. First, use the spade to slice in at a 45-degree angle, working around the base. Finish by gradually tunnelling underneath. It’s inevitable to come across some awkward roots – if you can’t sever them with the spade, use secateurs or a pruning saw.
It’s essential to keep the rootball damp, so lift on to a piece of polythene and wrap to prevent roots drying out. Recently planted shrubs should be easy enough to handle by yourself, but older plants are likely to have a more sizeable, heavier rootball – get some help handling the plant to avoid putting your back out.
Adjust the planting hole, if necessary, and lower the rootball into position – the shrub should be planted at exactly the same depth as its previous location. Any deeper or higher will be detrimental to its growth. Fill in the gaps around the outside with soil, firming down as you go to eliminate air pockets. Water well.
Over winter, strong winds might rock the shrub, causing cracks to open up around the rootball. Check regularly and refirm in the ground if it has been loosened. Mulch and feed with a general fertiliser in spring, and keep shrubs well watered during dry spells.