Go soft...and get fabulous plants for free
OVER the years I’ve met many experienced gardeners who have never once taken any cuttings. I’m sure there are a number of explanations for their reluctance to give it a crack, but one is likely to be that they consider propagation a technical undertaking that is best left in the hands of professional horticulturists.
Sure, some techniques require a deft touch or specialist kit, but not softwood cuttings. All you need is a bit of stem and with a few cuts here and there, you have a cutting that’s raring to produce roots. In my opinion, it’s the easiest and most reliable way to create lots of new plants for free.
Softwood cuttings are taken in late spring and early summer, using flexible side-shoots formed in the current year. Those taken at the tail end of the growing season are known as semi-ripe cuttings, because shoots are fairly firm or ‘ripe’, while hardwood cuttings are taken from dormant trees and shrubs in winter.
Many shrubs, perennials and tender plants are perfect for softwood cuttings. Among suitable shrubs are lavatera, buddleia, fuchsia, lavender and forsythia, along with popular perennials such as penstemon and phlox. A number of summer bedding plants will root readily, including pelargoniums and New Guinea impatiens.
Select some vigorous, 4in-long healthy shoots and remove from the mother plant by cutting above a leaf joint with secateurs.
Avoid removing stems with any obvious flowers or buds as they are likely to sap energy from the cutting, slowing down or preventing it forming roots.
If possible, gather material early in the morning, when the stems are firm and full of water. The soft plant material will lose moisture quickly and start to wilt, so place immediately into a large freezer bag with a little water in the bottom, shake and secure the top with an elastic band. Take the plant material to a cool, shady place. Make 2in to 4in-long cuttings by slicing through the bottom of the stem – directly under a pair of leaves – using a sharp gardening knife. Don’t leave any snags behind or it might rot.
Remove foliage from the bottom third of cuttings, taking care not to damage stems.
Fill a 6in pot with seed and cutting compost, firm down with the underside of another pot and then make four or five small holes around the outside with a pencil. Push a cutting into each hole up to the level of its lower leaves, securing it in place with your fingers. Stick a label in the pot and water gently.
Cuttings will dry out quickly, so keep humidity high by placing pots inside a heated windowsill propagator – another option is to cover with a clear plastic bag, held securely by an elastic band. Set in a warm, slightly shaded place, such as an east- or westfacing indoor windowsill.
It usually takes cuttings three weeks or so to form roots – check by looking for roots poking through drainage holes at the base and by giving them a gentle tug to see whether they are anchored. At this point, rootballs can be gently broken open and each rooted cutting given its own pot.