Why firm will not make shirts in China

CHARLES TYRWHITT is scaling back production in China after coming under pressure from its customers. It will end its contracts with cotton suppliers in Xinjiang province in July, and has reduced the number of shirts it manufacturers in China.

‘We are reacting to what the customer wants,’ said Wheeler. ‘A lot of customers are telling us they don’t want us to make shirts in China. They don’t like the Chinese government, there are areas of Chinese manufacturing using forced labour – but it’s so far removed from anything we would ever do.’

Wheeler defended Charles Tyrwhitt manufacturing all its shirts overseas, which he says means he can keep prices low. It sells four shirts for £129, made by suppliers in the Far East – including India and Malaysia – and Eastern Europe. Wheeler said customers have asked him to make shirts in the UK, but said the costs would mean he would have to more than quadruple prices, charging around £140 per shirt.

He said overseas factories are generally better run than those in the UK, citing Boohoo’s clothing factories in Leicester as an example of ‘terrible’ conditions for employees. Charles Tyrwhitt makes shoes in Northampton, ties in Essex and suit fabric in Yorkshire. ‘We try to make as much as we can in the UK,’ Wheeler said. ‘But UK manufacturing sadly is not what it used to be.’

He added that the romantic image of British manufacturing perhaps no longer always reflects the reality. ‘People have this perception that if you make abroad, it’s bad news,’ he said.

‘But before Covid, I made regular trips to our factories in the Far East. Our new manufacturing site south of Mumbai, India, is completely brand-new, air conditioned and immaculate – great working conditions.’