PARMOGEDDON!
Its 2,000 calories are the equivalent of three deep-fried Mars bars. Now civic chiefs in Middlesbrough want protected status for the fat-laden delicacy that critics have labelled...
AS A deep-fried post-pub treat with a gut-busting 2,000-plus calories, it is hardly the most sophisticated of delicacies.
But the notorious parmo has become the culinary pride of Middlesbrough – and now a campaign is under way to secure special protected status for the fat-laden treat.
It comprises a plate-sized piece of flattened chicken, coated in breadcrumbs, deep-fried and slathered with bechamel sauce and melted cheddar cheese. And then served with chips.
While it may horrify dieticians, Tees Valley mayor Ben Houchen says it is a ‘Teesside culinary institution’ that deserves recognition.
He and other local leaders have submitted a formal application for the dish to be granted a badge of
‘This dish causes joy and despair in equal measure’
quality and authenticity called a Traditional Specialities Guarantee (TSG), similar to how Melton Mowbray pork pies are protected.
Mr Houchen said: ‘If the Cornish can be proud of their pasties or the people of Wensleydale passionate about their cheese, why can’t Teessiders be proud of the parmo?
‘This protection will mean when you order a parmo, you get the delicious chicken feast you desire.’
If successful, the parmo – which has triple the calories of the deepfried Mars bar favoured by some Scots – could be offered in takeaways and supermarkets across the country as long as it is made in the traditional way.
Geoff Johns, who supplies local supermarkets with his parmos, said: ‘If parmos get this recognition, it will make the difference in whether or not my business can expand.
‘At the moment, my parmos are only in supermarkets locally and as far south as Leeds, but this quality mark would mean lots of publicity.’
It is believed the parmo was introduced to the area by Nicos Harris, an American chef who opened a restaurant in Middlesbrough after settling there following the Second World War.
Inspired by the Italian veal parmigiana, he swapped veal for pork, and later chicken, in 1958.
If the TSG bid succeeds, locals hope it will stop ‘adulterations’ of the traditional recipe such as the use of tomato or chilli sauce.
But not every Teessider is happy to be associated with the dish.
It featured in a Middlesbrough Council marketing campaign this year that included banners saying: ‘We are parmo and chips.’
However, the slogan was slammed as insulting and reducing the town to ‘cheap stereotypes’.
Tosh Warwick, a local historian who is writing the ‘definitive guide’ to parmo, said: ‘While there is a lot of pride in the parmo, it is also decried by many.
‘Celebrities visiting the town either seek it out or have one thrust in front of them, causing joy or despair in equal measure.’
Environment Secretary George Eustice will decide on the bid by TSG. His department confirmed that the application had been lodged and said a decision would be made within six months.
RUTH DAVIDSON IS AWAY