The Scottish Mail on Sunday

Churchill’s finest lunch hour

- THE KILLINGWOR­TH CASTLE Wootton, Oxfordshir­e T.D. ISACKE

WHEN Winston Churchill stayed at Blenheim Palace in the 1930s, he would occasional­ly slip away for a spot of lunch at The Killingwor­th Castle.

This charming inn, now with eight plush rooms in a former stable, is four miles away and Churchill is said to have enjoyed driving along the winding country lanes to get there, sometimes testing a new car in the company of his friend William Morris, founder of Morris Motors.

Little can have changed in the village of Wootton in the decades since: the little Cotswold stone cottages with foxgloves and climbing roses in the gardens; the venerable facade of the Church of St Mary the Virgin (parts date from the 13th Century); the trickle of the River Glyme; the buzz of bumblebees on a summer’s day.

The phrase ‘quintessen­tially English’ seems made for the area.

The Killingwor­th Castle was opened in 1637 by Thomas Killingwor­th to service travellers on what was then the busy London to

Worcester and Aberystwyt­h road, known as the Woodstock Weye.

It is now in the hands of Jim and Claire Alexander, who took over in 2012 when the pub was in a dreadful state.

They focused their attention fulltime on Killingwor­th after selling a sister pub, the Ebrington Arms near Chipping Campden, last year because of pressures caused by the pandemic. The result? Killingwor­th has been freshened up and made more alluring than ever.

It has the feel of a much-loved pitstop on a well-trodden route. You enter into a bar with a low ceiling, beams and simple stone walls. A stuffed fox stares down from a corner. Church candles flicker. Guests on leather chairs enjoy pints of Stroud Brewery beer, cocktails or fine wines.

The former stable where horses for passing carriages were once kept – renovated from a semidereli­ct condition – is at the front, facing a lawn.

The comfortabl­e rooms are decorated in an understate­d rustic style. Expect polished wooden floors, antique furniture, more beams, plus high-quality linen on wide beds, smart tiled bathrooms, comfy armchairs and good wi-fi. There are two dog-friendly rooms, with a maximum of two dogs per room.

The food is a (big) step above pub grub. Head chef Adam Brown used to work at the Ebrington Arms, which had a Michelin recommenda­tion. The tartar of Cornish monkfish with caviar was a fresh and appetising starter. A main of sirloin beef with morel sauce was perfectly medium-rare, and a chocolate pudding with salted caramel completed a fine meal. Three courses from £35.

Bar snacks such as sausage rolls with red onion marmalade (£7) are firstrate, as are the full English breakfasts with freshly baked sourdough bread. Most of the produce is organic.

l B&B from £145 per room per night (thekilling­worthcastl­e.com).

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 ?? ?? OLD FAVOURITE: The 17th Century Killingwor­th Castle. Right: One of its cosy bedrooms
OLD FAVOURITE: The 17th Century Killingwor­th Castle. Right: One of its cosy bedrooms

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