Join the cutting crew
You don’t need to be an expert to propagate plants – just grab some secateurs, compost and a carrier bag
There are some ways of propagating plants that are so fiddly they are best left to skilled horticulturists – T-budding and saddle grafting are two that sound just as complicated as they are to master. Yet I would wholeheartedly recommend that anyone makes more plants by taking cuttings… it’s quick and easy, has a high success rate and doesn’t require any specialist equipment.
Late summer into early autumn is the time to take semi-ripe cuttings, so-called because new stems that have developed over spring and summer are firm or ‘ripe’. Cuttings taken in spring or early summer from fresh growth are known as softwood cuttings, while hardwood cuttings are made from dormant trees and shrubs between late autumn and early winter.
The method is straightforward. Shoots are removed, trimmed and inserted into pots of compost. Place in a propagator and the cuttings will form roots within a few weeks, developing into young plants that will be ready to go outdoors next spring. Apart from being a way to fill gaps in your garden for free, it acts as an insurance policy for any plants lost over winter.
All sorts of plants can be propagated by semi-ripe cuttings: trees and shrubs such as holly, cercis, box, ceanothus and lavender, or climbers including passionflower and star jasmine. The technique is also perfect for rosemary, sage and other shrubby herbs, along with many tender perennials, such as pelargonium, fuchsia and penstemon.
Taking cuttings doesn’t require any fancy kit. All you need are secateurs or a straight-bladed gardening knife (make sure edges are super sharp to avoid snagging stems, leading to rotting), some carrier bags, compost, plant labels, a pencil and a few 6in-wide pots. A heated windowsill propagator will help to speed up the rooting process but isn’t essential.
As a trainee gardener, I was taught to gather plant material for cuttings first thing in the morning. At this time, stems are firm as they are full of water, increasing their chances of rooting. Also, as temperatures are cooler, shoots won’t wilt as quickly once separated – if they are too floppy, they are useless for making cuttings.
Select healthy, young shoots (about 4in long) close to the top of plants, cutting above a bud on the parent plant. Avoid older, woodier stems along with those bearing flowers or buds, as they will drain energy from cuttings, preventing them forming roots. If you can’t find stems without flowers, pinch them off with your fingers.
Collect shoots in a carrier bag, splash with a little water, shake and secure the top with a clip of some kind. If you are gathering from similar looking species, place in separate bags and add a label to assist identification. It’s best to prepare cuttings immediately but if you are delayed, store in the fridge for a few hours until you are ready.
Create your cuttings indoors, working on a clean, flat surface (I use a bread board). Make a straight cut beneath a leaf joint to leave a piece of shoot that’s about 3-4in long. Next, snip out the shoot’s tip if it’s very soft and sappy, and then strip leaves away from the bottom third of each cutting.
Fill a 6in-wide pot with seed and cutting compost, roughly level and then firm down gently using the bottom of another pot. Make four to five holes around the outside with a pencil and insert a cutting into each, up to the level of its lower leaves. Press compost around it with your fingers. Stick a label in the pot, water and allow to drain.
Cuttings will root rapidly within a humid environment, so place pots inside a heated windowsill propagator. If you don’t have one, there’s a clever way to improvise. Place a large, clear plastic freezer bag over the pot, making sure it doesn’t touch any of the cuttings. Keep everything snug by securing the bottom of the bag to the pot with an elastic band.
Within a matter of days, the severed end of the cutting will be sealed by white protective tissue known as callus – this builds up to form a knuckle-like lump, where roots will form. Mist leaves daily with a hand-held sprayer to reduce moisture loss and to accelerate the rooting process.
Remove cuttings from their protected environment when they are well-rooted (this can take three weeks or more, depending on the plant). Don’t rely on the arrival of new leaves as a sign they are ready. Check for roots poking out of drainage holes and give cuttings a gentle tug to see whether they are anchored. If in doubt, leave a little longer.
Place pots on a windowsill for a few weeks to allow cuttings to develop and then carefully break open the rootball.
Set each rooted cutting into a 3in pot filled with multi-purpose compost and grow on in a light, frostfree place. Hardy specimens can be planted in spring, while tender species will need to remain indoors until there’s no longer any danger from frosts.