Lovage shortbread and poached fruit

Although lovage has a distinctly savoury flavour, its stems are amazing when candied, turning the herb into a sweet and bringing out its spicy, complex flavour. You will need to start making them a few days ahead, but they will keep for months.

FOR THE CANDIED LOVAGE STEMS

250ml water 225g granulated sugar About 20 young lovage stems, cut to around 7cm Icing sugar

Put the water and sugar into a saucepan and heat gently, stirring all the time until the sugar dissolves. Drop the stems into the syrup and simmer for a few mins or until the syrup starts to thicken and the stems are tender. Leave to steep for 3 days, then gently reheat without boiling.

Remove the stems from the syrup and place on a wire rack to dry out, or place on a baking tray covered in baking parchment and dry in a low oven. Sprinkle with icing sugar and store in an airtight box.

FOR THE SHORTBREAD Makes 12

150g soft salted butter 70g golden caster sugar, plus 2 tbsp for sprinkling 150g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 70g rice flour 3 tbsp chopped candied lovage

Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, then add the flours, candied lovage and a pinch of salt. Roll onto a floured surface and cut into thick batons. Arrange on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and refrigerate for at least 30 mins.

Preheat oven to 180C/Fan 160C/ 350F. Remove the sheet from the fridge, sprinkle over the remaining caster sugar, and bake for 20–25 mins or until the shortbread is a pale straw colour. Cool on a wire rack. for the poached fruits

Serves 4

About 300g mixed summer fruits – raspberries, gooseberries, redcurrants, and so on 3 tbsp caster sugar

Put the fruits and sugar into a pan with a splash of water and heat gently until the juices run out of the fruits and they soften a little. Leave to cool. Serve with ice-cream and a couple of the lovage shortbread fingers.