TARA’S PERSONAL TOUR
Favourite café/ bar
CAFÉ CLOCK Serves the best coffee in town. cafeclock.com HOTEL SAHRAI Its rooftop bar is good for afterwork drinks and to take in a bit of contemporary Fez. hotelsahrai.com
JARDIN DES BIEHN Get a table on the verandah overlooking their glorious gardens, and have John Dory in chermoula sauce. jardindesbiehn.com DAR ROUMANA In winter I book a table in the chimney lounge for its real log fire and comforting FrancoMoroccan dishes such as local duck with souk-spiced cabbage. darroumana.com
Head to the Achabine street food souks, for bessara (broad bean soup), fried sardines, and a kefta stuffed into warm khobz (the local daily bread).
RIAD LAAROUSSA Start the day with coffee in the orange tree courtyard, zip out into the souks then spend the afternoon chilling by the pool before supper on the roof. riad-laaroussa.com DAR SEFFARINE Authentic architectural splendour and pared-back décor. darseffarine.com
Favourite way to spend an hour
A hammam at Dessange for a gommage (scrub with olive oil- based black soap) and ghassoul mask (rosewater-infused clay). salon.dessange.com/fes
Place to see by night
Stroll by the lavishly decorated exterior of the mosque and souks of Moulay Idriss. When it’s free from human traffic you can really admire the hand-painted decoration and gold leaf, and the surrounding alleyways take on an almost candle-lit glow.
One thing you must see
The Fez medersas (religious colleges). There’s the Sahrij medersa with its optical illusion pool and the Merinid Bou Inania, annexed to the Quaraouiyine Mosque. If you’re worried about going it alone, sign up for an architectural tour with Plan it Morocco (plan-it-morocco.com).
2 TARA is a food and travel writer (tarastevens.co.uk), creator of the Courtyard Kitchen at Dar Namir, a home-style cooking school (darnamir. com) and co-founder of Anajam Home (anajamhome.com), which stocks handmade Moroccan goods.
Hotel Sahrai’s rooftop 1 bar is where the hip go to hang. 2 A man in a fez* (yes!) strolling in the gardens at Jardin des Biehn.3 The beautifully decorated gate of the Moulay Idriss. 3 Franco-Moroccan fusion is on the menu at Dar Roumana 1