TARA’S PER­SONAL TOUR

The Simple Things - - ESCAPE | MY CITY -

Favourite café/ bar

CAFÉ CLOCK Serves the best cof­fee in town. cafe­clock.com HO­TEL SAHRAI Its rooftop bar is good for af­ter­work drinks and to take in a bit of con­tem­po­rary Fez. ho­tel­sahrai.com

Favourite restau­rants

JARDIN DES BIEHN Get a ta­ble on the ve­ran­dah over­look­ing their glo­ri­ous gar­dens, and have John Dory in cher­moula sauce. jardindes­biehn.com DAR ROUMANA In win­ter I book a ta­ble in the chim­ney lounge for its real log fire and com­fort­ing Fran­coMoroc­can dishes such as lo­cal duck with souk-spiced cab­bage. dar­roumana.com

Favourite mar­ket

Head to the Ach­abine street food souks, for bessara (broad bean soup), fried sar­dines, and a kefta stuffed into warm khobz (the lo­cal daily bread).

Favourite ho­tels

RIAD LAAROUSSA Start the day with cof­fee in the or­ange tree court­yard, zip out into the souks then spend the af­ter­noon chill­ing by the pool be­fore sup­per on the roof. riad-laaroussa.com DAR SEF­FARINE Au­then­tic ar­chi­tec­tural splen­dour and pared-back dé­cor. darsef­farine.com

Favourite way to spend an hour

A ham­mam at Des­sange for a gom­mage (scrub with olive oil- based black soap) and ghas­soul mask (rose­wa­ter-in­fused clay). salon.des­sange.com/fes

Place to see by night

Stroll by the lav­ishly dec­o­rated ex­te­rior of the mosque and souks of Moulay Idriss. When it’s free from hu­man traf­fic you can re­ally ad­mire the hand-painted dec­o­ra­tion and gold leaf, and the sur­round­ing al­ley­ways take on an al­most can­dle-lit glow.

One thing you must see

The Fez med­er­sas (re­li­gious col­leges). There’s the Sahrij med­ersa with its op­ti­cal il­lu­sion pool and the Merinid Bou Ina­nia, an­nexed to the Quaraouiyine Mosque. If you’re wor­ried about go­ing it alone, sign up for an ar­chi­tec­tural tour with Plan it Morocco (plan-it-morocco.com).

2 TARA is a food and travel writer (tarastevens.co.uk), cre­ator of the Court­yard Kitchen at Dar Namir, a home-style cook­ing school (dar­namir. com) and co-founder of Ana­jam Home (ana­jamhome.com), which stocks hand­made Moroc­can goods.

Ho­tel Sahrai’s rooftop 1 bar is where the hip go to hang. 2 A man in a fez* (yes!) strolling in the gar­dens at Jardin des Biehn.3 The beau­ti­fully dec­o­rated gate of the Moulay Idriss. 3 Franco-Moroc­can fu­sion is on the menu at Dar Roumana 1

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