• My City Rio de Janeiro
GREAT WEATHER, SUNNY PEOPLE AND A PARTY VIBE KEEP LAUREN QUINN HAPPY IN HER ADOPTIVE HOMETOWN
*There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month, we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day or to rediscover the charms of a city closer to you, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some vicarious travel. How long have you lived in Rio?
I’m a California native who came to Rio de Janeiro on holiday to tick that ‘Travel Bucket List’ box and never left. I fell in love with the dramatic landscape of the city, the kindness of the locals and the passionate, happy culture. Five years later, I live in Ipanema beach, a neighbourhood known for its beach style, boutique shops, modern restaurants and Bossa Nova history.
What makes your city unique?
Rio is unlike any other city. Everyone embraces a ‘live in the moment’ vibe. It isn’t uncommon to find yourself en route to the farmers’ market and end up at an impromptu Samba street party with strangers who go on to become lifelong friends. This spontaneous way of life is infectious and you soon find yourself focusing on what matters most: people, happiness and life.
What’s it like in January?
January is one of the best months in Rio because it’s the height of summer. Beaches are packed with colourful parasols, vendors selling everything from cold sweet tea to delicious açai bowls and the carefree feeling of summer is in the air. It’s the month before Carnival so all of the big samba groups hold weekly parties to practise their routines and get everyone in the mood. Carnival takes place every February/March. It’s a five-day festival of street parties, music, vibrant costumes and the world-renowned Carnival Parade at the Sambódromo (a permanent avenue-cum-stadium).
What time of day do you most enjoy?
Sunset is my favourite time of day at this time of year. It’s a Rio summertime tradition that everyone on Ipanema beach rises in standing ovation when the sun hits the water. I’ve always been incredibly touched by this idea that nature deserves applause.
What’s the nature like?
Rio is one of the largest urban forests in the world. So, while the city is a big urban sprawl, it still feels very green and tropical. I never cease to be awed by the contrast of ‘city meets jungle’ from the long row of tall Art Deco buildings lining Copacabana Beach, to the »
“Cariocas are a smiley lot... They revel in meeting visitors and making them feel welcome”
mischievous baby monkeys in the Botanical Gardens to the Tijuca National Park, where you feel completely engulfed by nature, right in the heart of the city.
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
Grumari Beach is a part of Rio known as the wild coast. It’s a stunning beach dotted with a few simple beach shacks. It feels like a secluded space far away from a big city, but really you’re just a mere few minutes away from all the action.
And what about the people who live there?
Cariocas, or Rio locals, are a smiley lot. They go about their daily lives in a relaxed fashion, often stopping to chat with friends or strangers and are almost always in the mood for an afternoon coffee or libation. They are some of the most welcoming people and revel in meeting visitors and making them feel welcome in their city. Cariocas adore being together and take pleasure in lending a helping hand.
Where are your favourite places to go with friends?
In common with the majority of Cariocas, I cannot resist a local boteco, a cross between a café and a bar, they’re often very simple, with wooden tables and chairs set up on a pavement, with a tiny kitchen in the back. The menu is made up of Brazilian classics such as
petiscos or finger foods, tall bottles of extremely cold beer and classic cacaça or local sugarcane spirit. I always order a plate of queijo minas, a soft cheese typical of the Minas Gerais region, frango passarinho, tiny bites of crispy garlic-fried chicken and a caipirinha, a drink made from cacaça and limes.
What’s your favourite way to get around?
The Metro line was extended for the Olympics, so I now have a Metro entrance on my street. I spend a lot of time downtown exploring the outdoor markets, enjoying the traditional restaurants and going to forró parties (a traditional style of music from the North). So the Metro is incredibly convenient, fast and clean.
What’s the shopping like?
As Brazil protects much of its industry, shopping in Rio feels very local. There are few international options, so you know you are buying something unique when you make a purchase. Living in Ipanema, which is the city’s Mecca for shopping, it’s difficult to resist the bright clothes and swimwear. In fact, I have been so inspired by the dynamic colours and tropical patterns over the years, that I began working alongside creative local women to design my own swimwear line
( bromeliaswimwear.com). As Cariocas spend a lot of their lives in bathing suits, I find Rio the best place in the world for your beach fashion needs!
Where do you like to escape to?
Brazil is so big, escaping on a day trip is not an easy option. Instead I have found pockets of paradise within the city borders that leave me feeling refreshed. My favourite Rio street is Rua Lopes Quintas in the Jardim Botanico neighbourhood. It has a brilliant collection of local art galleries, quaint cafés and an exotic feel, as it’s lined with dense trees that conjure a jungle backdrop.
What has been your best discovery about your city?
Rio is deep-seated in culture, but as it is spread out, it can be hard to find the pulse of the city. I thrive on discovering my own city, so I make it a point to talk to people and adventure in my own backyard. The Instituto Moreira Salles is a former mansion turned gallery in the hills of Gávea. The architecture alone is fascinating, but the exhibits and in-house café are a delight. Best of all, entrance is free.
What do you miss most if you’ve been away?
The samba music! Everywhere you go, whether the supermarket or a random street corner, you’ll hear music and a large majority of it is live. When you go out, you can always expect to dance, especially if you find yourself at a roda. A roda is a traditional style of playing samba where the musicians sit in a circle and jam while everyone gathers around to sing.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
Unfortunately, Rio gets a really bad rap in the press, so most newcomers are a little unsure about what to expect. However, all the visitors I have met over the years say the same thing – they were wary upon arrival but, within a day, they felt extremely comfortable and left with nothing but great memories.
Would you change anything about the city?
Rio was designed by the Portuguese hundreds of years ago but the population has grown greatly since then. The city has a ton of traffic, which makes getting to and from places frustratingly time-consuming.
Where would you recommend somebody stay?
Without a doubt, Ipanema Beach. You have everything there – a top beach, great restaurants, fun beach bars, local boutiques, a Havaiana shoe store and the Metro. Overall, it’s a stunning neighbourhood.
What keeps you in Rio?
Aside from the obvious – the weather, beach life and big-hearted people – I stay in Rio because of my work. I created a local travel concierge service to help visitors discover the real city, which I’m really passionate about.