MY CITY* OSLO
SNOWY STREETS, FROZEN LAKES AND CINNAMON BUNS... THERESE ELSTAD SHOWS US WINTER IN NORWAY’S CAPITAL
*There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel.
How long have you lived in the city?
I was born and raised here. My parents are from Steinkjer, in Trønderlag. They moved in their early 20s, had me, and we’ve lived here ever since.
Tell us what makes your city unique
Oslo combines a bustling city, a surrounding forest ( known as marka) and the Oslo fjord. Norwegians love nature, and Osloites spend time hiking and skiing in marka, depending on the season. But in the city itself there’s art, amazing architecture, exciting food, quality coffee and shopping. Oslo stands out by being a capital where you can do and discover many things, but it’s still calm and quiet – a place to recharge.
What’s it like in winter?
Like other Nordic cities, it’s dark, with only around six hours’ of daylight. When the first snow hits it’s a relief, as it makes the days brighter. If we’re lucky, marka is covered in snow in December. Big pine trees, heavily weighed down in dense snow, look like they belong in a fairy tale. It’s the time to go cross-country skiing or ice skating on lakes ( both in marka and the city centre). At Christmas, I go ice skating at Spikersuppa
– a man-made ice rink near the Vinterland Christmas market. It’s free and you can see the Christmas lights, smell mulled wine and hot chocolate, and hear the crackling of the surrounding fires. There’s also a 2km-long toboggan track from Frognerseteren down to Midtstuen. Warm up in the Skjennungstua café with a cinnamon bun next to the fireplace.
What time of day do you most enjoy and why?
Before the city wakes up. I especially love the break of dawn when the first light hits the city and peers through the dense wintry clouds. This happens around 9am in December. I usually start my day like any other Norwegian, with a big cup of aromatic black coffee.
What’s the nature like?
Marka consists of thick, dense forest where we go hiking, camping or foraging for Nordic blueberries. The Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) has cabins all over marka, which can be used for a small »
“At Christmas we have several parties called julebord, where we gather to eat traditional Norwegian food”
fee. Most are traditional Norwegian wood cabins, but some newer ones are more architectural, such as Fuglemyrhytta, which has an amazing view over the Oslo fjord. We bring our own bed linen and food. They’re great places to go for a weekend.
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
Walking beside the river Akerselva. I follow the river from Maridalsvannet lake to Vaterland Park in the city centre. I always stop by the highest waterfall and have a waffle and a cup of coffee in nearby Hønse-Lovisas hus. I also love island hopping in the Oslo fjord. In summer, we swim, sunbathe and barbecue. In winter it’s quieter and you can explore the islands’ history.
Tell us about the people who live in your city
The typical Osloite likes to be active. We’re often seen on electric scooters or bikes, or just strolling around. We appreciate a freshly brewed cup of coffee, quality food and spending time with friends and family – whether in a café, park or museum. It’s a multicultural city, where everyone is welcome to create a home.
What’s your favourite place to gather with friends?
Bettola, a cool Italian aperitivo cocktail bar run by Tomas Ricciardi. Decorated with Scandinavian furniture from the 60s, it serves an incredible range of drinks inspired by the Giro d’Italia. The best drink in winter is Zenzero, with warming ginger, Bacardi 4, Martini fiero aperitif and a hint of fresh lime.
Tell us about eating in your city
At Christmas, we have several Christmas parties, called julebord, where we gather with friends and family to eat traditional Norwegian Christmas food, such as salted lamb ribs ( pinnekjøtt) and pork belly ( ribbe), with local beer and aquavit. There are a couple of literary eateries to visit too: walk in Ibsen’s footsteps and follow a marked trail from his apartment in Arbins Gate to his much-beloved Grand Café. If you’re into crime books, Harry Hole’s local restaurant Schrøder is well worth a visit. But Oslo’s food scene keeps growing by the day. I recently discovered Arakataka. The head chef, Tim Ekblad, is inspired by the cuisine of the north, and ingredients are as local, seasonal and sustainable as possible.
What’s your favourite way to get about the city?
Oslo has a great public transport system, but everything is quite close, and by walking, you see and experience more. During winter it can be tricky as the pavements are slippery, especially when you wake up
to new snow covering the ice. I use spikes on the soles of my shoes (my friends laugh at me, but I have no shame). Some pavements are salted ( but freeze again overnight) and some are heated, which I love because then I can walk safely at the speed I like!
What’s the shopping like?
Oslo is great for Norwegian design, which is becoming more sought after both in clothes and interiors. Frogner, Bogstadveien and Stortingsgaten are great shopping areas for finding locally made and unique things for my new apartment. And I love walking around Grünerløkka’s shops, selling everything
– food, coffee, clothes, plants and homewares.
Where do you like to escape to?
I love meeting friends at SALT, an art and music venue with amazing views of the opera house, the new library ‘Deichman Bjørvika’ and the Munch museum. We grab some beers and hang out in Àrdna (a sauna) for the evening – we also swim in the fjord in summer, or, if we’re brave enough, ice bathe in winter! There are floating sauna boats near the Opera House, too; a good way to warm up on icy winter days.
What has been your best discovery about your city?
The Emanuel Vigeland mausoleum. He was the younger brother of sculptor Gustav Vigeland, and a painter himself. He designed and decorated it originally as his atelier, but later as his own mausoleum. The building isn’t remarkable from the outside and when you enter, it’s almost pitch dark, but sit down until your eyes are accustomed to the light and you start to see a giant fresco on the wall and ceiling depicting life, love and death. Above the door as you leave is an urn containing his ashes. It’s a very low doorway, so all visitors are forced to bow to him as they exit! It’s rumoured Emanuel didn’t appreciate living in his brother’s shadow, and that his mausoleum was his posthumous revenge.
Where would you recommend somebody stay?
Amerikalinjen, a new boutique hotel in the centre of Oslo. The building was once the headquarters of the Norwegian America Line, and the starting point for thousands of Norwegians who emigrated to America. Today, it has amazing interiors and great food and drink inspired by New York’s restaurants (it even has its own bagel bakery).
What keeps you in your city and where would you like to live if you couldn’t live here?
The relaxed and friendly atmosphere keeps me in Oslo. For a year, I lived in Brisbane, Australia, where I’d love to live permanently, if it wasn’t so far. Over the past few years, I’ve been considering moving to London as I love the busy city life and many possibilities it offers. »