My City: Florence
IN 2013, GIULIA SCARPALEGGIA SHOWED US HER CITY. WE GO BACK TO SEE WHAT’S NEW AND HOW TUSCANS ENJOY WINTER
*There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel. Where are you from originally?
I was born in a small village in the Tuscan countryside, between Siena and Florence. I’ve always lived in the same house, where my grandmother was born and then my father – I still live there next to my family, with my husband, Tommaso, daughter, Livia, and two dogs. It’s where I work, write and teach.
What drew you to Florence?
Probably the best answer would be friendship. Almost all my friends live there, so I’m in Florence at least three times a week. You share a meal, an ice cream, discover markets and shops… and it happens. You gradually fall in love with the city, the food, the walks in the evening, and you start to consider Florence your home town.
What’s Florence like in January?
January is a month when you can explore Florence and feel like you’re the first one to discover that back alley, or that small vinaio (wine merchant) that serves an outstanding ribollita (Tuscan bread soup) along with a glass of honest Chianti. It’s the time of year that gives Florence back to its residents. You can enter the Uffizi Gallery without queueing for hours, and stand in front of The Birth of Venus by Botticelli undisturbed.
What time of day do you most enjoy?
It’s easy to feel the magic of Florence in the early morning, when the shops are still closed and the bars begin to open their doors to let out the smell of freshly baked pastries. Another great moment is in the late afternoon, during the golden hour – the river Arno and the setting sun create a superb picture; you feel like you’re living in a Renaissance painting.
Where’s your favourite green space?
Piazza d’Azeglio is a tree-lined square surrounded by elegant buildings. There’s a children’s playground and silent paths in the middle of the bustling city. A few minutes’ walk from Sant’Ambrogio market, it’s the perfect place to enjoy your panino with ham and cheese, relaxing on a bench in the shadow of an old tree. »
Tell us about the colours of your city.
Florence is a Renaissance city, and its colours perfectly match its spirit. The stone of the churches, ancient buildings and cobbled streets give a textured feeling: there’s the gold of sandstone, the bluish-grey of pietra serena (another type of sandstone used throughout the city), the burnt red of tiled roofs, and the white, green and red marble of the Duomo’s neo-gothic façade. The river Arno, which divides the city into two, gives Florence a golden light in the late afternoons, creating a backdrop for romantic walks and souvenir photos.
Tell us about the people who live in your city.
The true fiorentini – the people who’ve been living in the city for generations – are extremely proud of Florence and its long history. They brag about speaking ‘real’ Italian – the language of Dante Alighieri – and get annoyed when someone makes fun of them for their pronunciation of the letter ‘c’. In the Florentine dialect, it sounds like a Spanish ‘h’ – it makes their way of speaking unique, and is loved by (almost) everyone.
What’s your favourite way to get about the city?
I’m not a big fan of driving into Florence since I’m a country girl and I’m used to empty roads. So I walk, walk, walk. It’s true that the best way to discover a city is to get lost there. Enjoy the narrow backroads, the private gardens of the historical buildings and the tiny shops off the main tourist routes. Then you just look up and search for the Duomo (cathedral) to find your guiding landmark.
What are your favourite places to go with friends?
We usually hang out after work in a bar or café to have a drink – or better, an aperitivo. Golden View Open Bar, just next to Ponte Vecchio, has a great atmosphere in which to relax at the end of the day with a unique view of Ponte Vecchio, the river Arno and the Uffizi. Try the fruit cocktails, made with fresh seasonal fruit. If you’re a wine lover, don’t miss Le Volpi e L’uva, a wine bar in Piazza dei Rossi, where you can also enjoy tasty crostoni with your glass of wine.
Where do you find your guilty pleasures?
Florence is famous for its hearty street food, panino al lampredotto (the fourth stomach of the cow, served hot in a sandwich with a tasty salsa verde and a pinch of black pepper). I love queuing with workers and tourists, grabbing my panino and people watching. There are many stalls throughout the city where you can taste it – my favourites are L’Antico Trippaio, (Via dei Cimatori 16) and Il Trippaio del Porcellino
“The river Arno and the setting sun create a superb picture; you feel like you’re in a Renaissance painting”
(Piazza del Mercato Nuovo), close to Ponte Vecchio. If you’re not an offal lover, try a panino with local cheese and salami at I Maledetti Toscani (Via Dei Cerchi).
What amuses you about the city?
Clet Abraham is a French artist living in Florence. He has amended street signs across Europe with stickers to entertain people and make them think. I love walking with my nose up in the air to discover his pieces of work. You can find them in the most unexpected places.
Where do you like to go with friends?
In the evening we choose a gelateria to enjoy our gelato while walking in the deserted streets. There’s plenty of choice: Gelateria Edoardo (in Piazza Duomo), for an artisanal organic ice cream; Gelateria Carabé (in Via Ricasoli) for a Sicilian granita; and Gelateria dei Neri, (in Via dei Neri), for my favourite chocolate ice cream.
Where do you like to go alone?
I’m quite a romantic person: I love daydreaming, creating plots and listening to music while walking or driving. Every time I’m alone and I’m driving in Florence, I can’t help but stop by Piazzale Michelangelo. Find your spot, lay against the brick wall and admire the city; the Duomo, Palazzo della Signoria, the river Arno and the red roofs. It’s breathtaking during the day, and amazingly romantic during the night. If you stretch your hands you can almost touch the Duomo, and you’ll feel like Florence is yours.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
The Duomo is impressive and surprises everyone, newcomers and city dwellers alike. You can spot it from afar, from almost every corner of Florence, but when you walk underneath it, especially at night, you feel its massive presence. You can really touch history.
Where would you recommend somebody stay?
In summer, escape the Florentine heat and book a B&B in the hills around the city. But in winter, live like a local and find a small apartment in one of the most authentic neighborhoods, such as the Oltrarno, San Niccolò or San Frediano. Here you can find familyowned restaurants, small artistic workshops, bakeries and grocery stores. And you can walk to the museums and art galleries, have dinner in a traditional trattoria, then stroll back home afterwards.
What one thing would you change about the city?
Tuscan food is superb in Florence and the same can be said for pizza – the city’s become one of the best in Italy for Neapolitan pizza. That said, I’d love the chance to eat authentic food from other cultures, just for a change. Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Indian, Middle-Eastern, Mexican… wouldn’t that be great? »