The Simple Things

WEARING WELL

Stories of the clothes we love RUFFLES

- Words: FRANCES AMBLER

What was the first ruffle you fell in love with? Mine was a blue, extremely froufrou number modelled by a transforme­d Cinderella in the Ladybird book telling of her story. Those ruffles were, literally, fairy tale stuff.

Whether your favourite ruffle comes from a fairy tale or a history book, their appeal is undeniably nostalgic. It’s been like that for centuries: the Laura Ashley ruffled frocks of the 1970s and ’80s – today highly sought-after as vintage items – reference 19th-century designs, but those Victorian numbers were themselves inspired by 18th-century fashions. Name an item of clothing and it’s almost certain that someone will have stuck a ruffle on it at some point in its history, from the cravat to cuffs to cascading skirts, worthy of a ball.

Although they’re not always considered ‘cool’, the ruffle – much like Cinderella – always seems to get its happy ending. While I thought I’d left ruffles behind in my childhood, over the last few years they’ve gradually taken over my Instagram. I began following Laura of @nofeaturew­alls because of her winning ways with William Morris wallpaper, but began paying more attention to the way she wears matching Victorian-inspired patterns and ruffles in a way that looks both modern and undeniably cool.

Then there’s @dailydress­edit, each day seemingly suggesting a new flounce or frill. Or maybe, while wearing jeans or leggings, day in day out over lockdown, I just started noticing them more. For offering something that adds a little extra style to the everyday.

Laura Ashley started her business when she was searching for delicate Victorian-style printed fabrics: not finding what she wanted, she made them herself. The same with her dresses. What she loved, she said, were “things that last forever.” It’s not only her frills that live on in the independen­t makers of today, but also her ethos. Look at some of the ruffle bringers of today: O Pioneers (opioneers.co.uk); Benjamin Fox ( benjaminfo­x.com.co); and Justine Tabak ( justinetab­ak.co.uk), all championin­g clothes to be loved forever, slow fashion and sustainabi­lity. Then, of course, there are the vintage sellers that specialise in the thrill of a ’70s frill, such as @thepansyga­rden, or @lauravonbe­hrvintage.

My literary icons progressed beyond Cinderella to later childhood favourites, such as Anne of Green Gables and the March Sisters, who combine ruffles with a desire to make their own way in the world. Now when I wear ruffles, I can style them how

I’d like, with my trusty Docs or layered with huge jumpers. While my ruffles may nod to the past, wearing them reminds me of an advantage of living in the 21st century: the freedom to wear whatever I want, however I want.

“There are the vintage sellers that specialise in the thrill of a ’ 70s frill”

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