Devonshire splits

These buns were once found in both Cornwall and Devon. The recipes are almost the same, however, the Cornish splits are larger, spread with treacle and known as ‘thunder and lightning’. In her 1932 book, Good Things in England, Florence White recommends rubbing the splits with a buttered piece of paper after baking to make them shine.

For 16 splits

15g dried yeast

300ml lukewarm whole milk

500g strong white bread flour

30g demerara sugar

30g butter (room temp), cubed

5g fine sea salt

Add the yeast to the milk and stir briefly to gently activate it. The yeast will start to foam up in clusters, which means it’s ready. Meanwhile, combine the flour and sugar in a large bowl or electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, then add the butter on top. Pour half of the yeast mixture over the butter and start kneading. When the milk and butter are completely absorbed, add the rest of the yeast mixture. Knead for a further 5 mins, then leave to stand for a few minutes (at this point the dough will be very wet). Finally, add the salt and knead for 10 mins more until everything has come together in a smooth, elastic dough that isn’t too dry or too wet.

2 Cover the dough and set aside for 1 hr, or until it’s doubled in size. Meanwhile, line two baking trays with baking parchment.

3 When ready, briefly knead the dough and divide it into 16 equal pieces. Take a piece of dough and lightly flatten on your work surface, then pull the outer parts in like a purse and gently squeeze together like a dumpling. Turn the dough over so that the squeezed ends are on the bottom. It should be nice and smooth on top. Place on the baking tray and repeat with the remaining dough.

4 Cover the buns with a light cotton cloth, then wrap in a plastic bag.

Rest the dough for 1 hr, or until the buns have doubled in size. Towards the end of the resting time, preheat the oven to 210C/Fan 190C/Gas 6

5 Bake for about 10–15 mins, or until they have a light golden blush. Eat while still warm with whipped cream, jam, and a dusting of icing sugar. Cook’s note: Best eaten straightaway as they become heavier as they cool. They’re also freezable – just allow them to thaw before popping in a hot oven for a few minutes to revive them.