MY CITY* DUBAI
WHERE SKYSCRAPERS MEET SAND DUNES, ANNA IVANOVA SHARES THE CONTRASTS OF HER FAST- PACED METROPOLIS
How long have you lived in the city?
We planned to stay for two to three years, but we’ve been here now for five years. There’s just something about this place that makes you want to stay.
What brought you to Dubai?
My husband got a job offer and I saw it as an exciting challenge. Coming from Russia, where it can get as cold as -30°C in winter, the sunshine is a plus, too.
Tell us what makes your city unique
Buildings compete for titles such as ‘the biggest’ or ‘the tallest’. The Dubai Mall is the largest in the world, with almost every store imaginable. And, at over 828m and with more than 160 storeys, the Burj Khalifa is the ‘tallest building in the world’ and ‘highest number of storeys in the world’ (remember the scene with Tom Cruise climbing it in Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol?). However, I recommend skipping ‘the highest outdoor observation deck in the world’ and going to At.Mosphere restaurant on the 122nd floor for almost exactly the same view and a delicious lunch, too.
What makes Dubai such a great place to live?
I like the contrasts. You could be in Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC) for a work meeting in the morning, which feels like New York or the City of London, and an hour later you can be strolling along the beach. It’s a great city for a healthy work-life balance.
What’s it like in June?
Hot! Very hot! With temperatures rising to over 40°C and a high humidity level. However, there’s air conditioning everywhere and you can cool off in the pool or enjoy plenty of indoor activities ( you can even go skiing, snowboarding or ice skating at the malls).
What time of day do you most enjoy, and why?
Sunset at the beach. One of the things that lockdown taught us is not to take the little pleasures for granted. Spending a few hours at the beach has become our weekend ritual. I love to build sandcastles and collect shells with my young daughter. We especially love Kite Beach – as its name suggests, a great place to kite surf. »
*There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel.
What’s the nature like?
The Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary offers visitors a closer view of the wildlife. It’s just magical to watch flamingos in their natural habitats with skyscrapers in the background. And 30 minutes’ drive away is the Al Qudra Lakes, where Arabian oryx roam free.
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
An off-road trip to Liwa Oasis in Rub’ al-Khali desert (also known as the ‘Empty Quarter’) is a bit of an adventure. While, the ghost town of Al Madam is another interesting trip – the village was abandoned in the late 70s or early 80s (no one knows why) and is slowly being consumed by the sand.
Tell us about Old Dubai
One of the most interesting things to do is to take an Abra ride through Old Dubai, stopping at the Gold and Spice souks. An Abra is a traditional wooden boat and the fare is only one dirham (1 AED). It’s a fascinating glimpse of the original Dubai before the tourist boom. Also worth a visit is Al Fahidi Historical District, commonly referred to as Al Bastakiya, and its narrow streets with sand-coloured historic Emirati houses.
Tell us about the colours of your city
If I had to describe Dubai, and the UAE in general, it would be ‘sandy’, with shades ranging from red, golden and brown to cream and soft beige – the sunset really brings this whole palette of colour to life.
Tell us about the people who live in your city
Before I moved here I was worried about the cultural differences and not knowing the language, but 80% of the population is expat, with people from all over the world, making it incredibly culturally diverse.
Give us a flavour of the local lifestyle
The clichés of gold, supercars, private yachts, fine dining and luxury goods are true, however, there is a deep respect and appreciation for tradition. Even those who drive a Lamborghini by day will spend their evenings in the majlis, a communal ‘sitting space’ where people gather to share stories and ideas, one of the cornerstones of Emirati life.
Where do you like to gather with friends?
Friday and Saturday are classed as the weekend in Dubai and Fridays are all about brunch. Restaurants offer amazing options from buffets to set menus. It’s also fun to rent a yacht for a few hours – split between friends, it can cost not much more than a cinema ticket.
“Bedouins lived here 50 years ago – now there are smart police stations, flying taxis and a futuristic Hyperloop”
Tell us about the food in your city?
There are new restaurants opening all the time, even through the pandemic. Fine dining can be found in the DIFC area, while the local cuisine is influenced by flavours and techniques from the region. Camel meat, shawarma, houmous, falafel, fattoush, karak chai and Arabic coffee are among the ‘must try’ local dishes.
What’s your favourite way to get about the city?
Dubai is a car-friendly megapolis meaning that pedestrian life can be challenging, although Dubai also has the third-largest automated, driverless metro system in the world.
What’s the shopping like?
The Gold Souk, Perfume Souk and Spice Souk are all located in the heart of old Dubai and are fascinating to explore. I find the gold Indian bridal jewellery beautiful, while you can buy saffron (a different kind of gold) for a very good price here.
Where do you like to escape to?
Coming from Russia, I miss the seasonal changes, especially the snow and greenery. We recently discovered Wadi Shees – an amazing oasis in the desert with a jungle-like ambience. We also visited
The Buhais Geology Park recently, an exhibition space hidden in the desert which documents the region’s geological phenomena. The site features marine fossils from over 65 million years ago, spectacular mountain ranges and ancient burial sites, and the buildings have been created to resemble fossilised sea urchins.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
The rapid pace of change here. The UAE was founded in 1971 and in December the country will celebrate its journey over the past 50 years. Dubai has grown from a small trading outpost into one of the most modern cities on the planet. Bedouins lived here 50 years ago – now there’s an Uber helicopter and smart police stations, they’re testing flying taxis, constructing the Hyperloop (a futuristic super-fast transport system) and sending a probe to Mars. It really does feel like time is moving faster here.
If you could, what would you change about the city?
I don’t have a driving licence, so I wish there were more pedestrian areas.
Where would you recommend somebody to stay?
Dubai Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residence are my current favourites.
Where would you live if you couldn’t live here?
The truth is that we don’t know where life is going to take us, but Dubai will always be very special as it’s the city where our daughter was born. »