The Simple Things

Green bean carbonara

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This recipe does everything I want a plate of food to do. It’s quick and simple to make. It puts the harvest centre stage. It’s immensely satisfying (you’ll think the portion sizes are too small, but they’re not). And it tastes sweet and savoury, rich and fresh, all in one. Serves 2 200g green beans, topped and tailed 90g diced pancetta 2 shallots, finely sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tbsp chopped thyme leaves 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (optional) 3 large egg yolks 75ml double cream 40g parmesan cheese, grated 1 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the beans for 3–5 mins until just cooked through, then plunge into cold water. Drain, then split the beans straight down the middle lengthways to create ribbons. There’s a seam running down each one, and they should come apart easily with a tug. 2 In a non-stick frying pan, brown the pancetta over a medium-high heat for 2–3 mins. Add the shallots, garlic and thyme, and reduce the heat. If the pancetta has not released much fat, add the olive oil to help the shallots cook, otherwise continue without. Sweat, with a lid on, for about 6–8 mins, or until soft.

3 Meanwhile, beat together the yolks, cream and most of the parmesan and season well with pepper.

4 When the shallots are soft, add the split beans and muddle everything around gently for a few seconds.

5 The next part requires a swift hand and confident heart. Remove the frying pan from the heat, then pour in the egg mixture and stir assertivel­y. The egg will cook in the residual heat, so keep it moving, or you risk scrambled egg flecked with beans.

6 Loosen the sauce with a splash of hot water if needed, then spoon onto warmed plates, topping with the remaining parmesan.

Cook’s note: You can use runner beans instead if you prefer, or stir in some cooked spaghetti at the end if you feel the need for carbs, but I find it filling enough without. Either way, make sure your fellow diner is ready to eat before you pour the eggs into the pan – this dish doesn’t hold well.

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