The Simple Things

PRESERVED CITRUS

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This is one of the easiest and most delicious ways to preserve citrus. The traditiona­l variety used in Morocco is citron beldi, which are small and highly aromatic. Bergamot lemons, which are larger but have a similar fragrance, are also favoured, while blood oranges, Seville and navel oranges are all spectacula­r when preserved in this way. However, when I offer a taste test of all the citrus possibilit­ies preserved in salt, it’s the limes that send people’s taste buds into an excited frenzy. Every. Single. Time. They then start to think of all the possibilit­ies… used in place of an olive in a ‘dirty’ gin or martini, rubbed into a shoulder of lamb with fresh coriander, or used in a salsa verde as an alternativ­e to anchovies.

MAKES 2 x 200g JARS

400g unwaxed citrus

60g good-quality sea salt

Seasonal herbs and/or spices

1 Wash your citrus and cut into 1 tbsp-sized nuggets. Set a sieve over a bowl and squeeze out the juice, then discard any pips caught in the sieve. Add the salt and herbs and/or spices and mix.

2 Spoon the salted citrus into sterilised jars, then pour the brined juice over the top, dividing it evenly between the jars.

3 Press the citrus down as much as possible. The brine should cover the fruit but if not, top up with filtered or mineral water (not tap water, as it contains chemicals that inhibit the fermenting process).

4 Seal the lid and leave in a cool, dark place to mature, shaking regularly and checking to ensure the fruit is always covered in brine. If it’s not, top up the jars with a brine solution using 100ml filtered water and 4g sea salt. Cook’s note: They’ll be ready in about 4 weeks but will keep for years. Once opened, store in the fridge and use within 3 months (although if your jar is clean and the fruit is fully covered by brine, they’ll keep longer).

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 ?? ?? The preserve of a wellstocke­d pantry, use these citrus fruits to add bursts of zing to winter dishes
The preserve of a wellstocke­d pantry, use these citrus fruits to add bursts of zing to winter dishes

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